What’s That Noise in My Differential?

by birtanpublished on August 5, 2020

Greetings viewers ere at the car guy thank you so much for tuning in today do you have a noise coming from the rear end of your vehicle or more specifically the differential of your vehicle might sound something like this if you answered yes to that question or

You're just curious of what it looks like inside the differential vehicle keep watching now about a year ago I changed out the ring and pinion and also carrier in this 10 bolt rear end in my dad's truck ever since then I've had

This noise now I have a feeling I know what it is and my suspicion is that the pinion bearings and the reason why I suspect the pinion bearings is for two reasons one the noise really gets louder on deceleration as opposed to

Acceleration because of that and the fact that when I was setting everything up I had to ruin a set of bearings and install a new set of bearings now when I installed that new set of bearings even

Though they were the same brand I didn't change out the races the bearing races inside the differential housing and I think that may be the cause because whenever you install bearings like this they're a mated pair they have to go

With the race that they were made with and this video may or may not prove that so I may be wrong but I think by the end of this video I think we'll find that that noise has gone away because I've changed out the pinion bearings now I'm

Not going to go over a whole lot of specifics in this video about this setup but I'll link the video in the description of me putting this thing together which contains all the relevant information on that for this video we're

Going to go in there see if we can diagnose the problem and get rid of this noise on this differential I'm gonna start by draining the fluid and to do that I did this differential cover

Specifically so that it had this drain plug well it also has this fill plug which I'll remove which will allow the fluid to drain out the lower plug when I remove it that much easier now we'll admit I used a gasket on this

Differential cover just as an update and the bolts all worked loose and I had a very small leak for a time just an FYI on that you might want to recheck the bolts if you decide to use a differential cover similar to mine maybe

Even install a little bit of Loctite on them or use our TV for a gasket it's fluid is looking a little chunky here some bits dream plug there it's magnetic it's honestly kind of normal to see somewhere here it's gonna be nice to get

A chance to see the everything all this work and see what it looks like after a year anyway while the oil is draining I'm gonna take the opportunity to remove the driveshaft I'm not actually gonna take it all the

Way out of the truck I'm just gonna move it up and out of the way with some bungee cords if I can get away with that great I'm now gonna remove the wheels and the brakes on both sides so I can pull the axles out of the differential

Once again all the details of this are covered in that differential rebuild series there's it's a to video series that I'll link in the description next phase let's get the differential cover removed I'm not gonna mess with these

Adjustments because I had them all adjusted so I'm just gonna leave these be and just remove the fasteners around the circumference of the of the cover here having the drain plug is very handy had this broken loose that would have

Had a big mess in fact if you have a steel cover what I would advocate is removing out lower bolts first and then doing the top ones last so that way when it opens up you don't have to worry about a big mess so differential fluid

Is like one of my favorite smells not I'm not seeing anything right from the go it gives me cause for concern I mean everything looks pretty normal what I'm gonna do before I really start taking

Things apart well actually I'll take the axles out now but I'm gonna check the tooth pattern just to see what that looks like and if it looks good I'm pretty sure I can just keep the same shims under in my opinion that I have

And just put it all back together with new bearings that's my hope anyway so really I'm just going in here and changing the pinion bearings but I'm also gonna take the opportunity to look at the carrier

Bearings as well I'm just pulling these axles out and letting them rest here as long as it's not stressing the seal which it is not you notice it's much thinner at this part of the actual and it is up here where the seal rides

You're fine so you don't have to take the axles all the way out you just need to get them out of the differentials so that it can be removed I can see it's hitting like right in the middle I'm extremely happy with that

Gear tooth pattern I hope I'm able to maintain it a lot more backlash though like 14 kind of what I'm seeing backlash should be five to nine thousandths and I'm getting towards the

High side of that spectrum so I'd call it I'd say 14 so in order to tighten up that backlash what I would do is maybe added zoom to this side maybe take one other this side and this moves this closer to the pinion here are the races

To these side bearings they don't look bad bearings moved freely I don't see any issues with this side and I've made sure to keep things specific to sides so these are the shims and everything that go with this side so let's get a look at

That I don't know if you look at like the inside of that it's like there's somewhere going on there but it's gonna wear I mean these are moving parts but I'm not seeing anything that jumps out and says whoa that looks super bad

Pinion feels a little tight a little chunky in an effort to solve the noise before taking this whole thing apart I tightened it down some more my torque wrench only goes up to 250 foot-pounds this actually gets torqued to 300

Foot-pounds the pinion nut is what I'm talking about back on this side let's get this out of here and inspect these bearings and see if I'm correct in life theory that this is the problem the bearings that go to this guy right here

Well that was easy enough I know it's tool abuse but this long screwdriver I think it's gonna work very well for removing this seal we are here is that front bearing race see how there's that shiny line there in the

Back I think that's my culprit this one seems like more of the same kind of thing it's got that line and this is what I was worried about even though the bearings were the same brand you're supposed to install the bearings

And the races as a set and I did not I just put bearing eye while I just put the bearings on the pinion shaft coz that's what I had at the time and put them in I didn't have enumeration well I didn't bother to put the new races in at

The time and I'm just wondering if that's what's causing my noise right there a closer look on the bench and there's that line it's on both of these bearings might even be able to see those little

Bits of metal in there he was a closer look at the bearings here's the other bearing same kind of deal it looks like it has little bits of where I'm gonna start by installing the races this is everything that was in that package I

Forgot to mention it also came with some shims in case you need to change your gear tooth pattern or backlash or something like that so it's nice to have some extra shims but like I said these are a match set so

The bearing and the race come together and they should always be installed that way and perhaps by the end of this video we'll prove that even though I put in the same brand of bearing it's it still could be slightly different but we'll

Find out by the end of video if I'm right I want to start by installing this guy and once again detail on this stuff is covered in those videos linked in the description next I'm going to get this pinion

Bearing off and install the new one here there's no way around it you're gonna destroy this bearing when you remove it here's my new bearing here's the old setup and the old shim first shims plural I should say I think there might

Be two there anyway given that everything was good as far as gear pattern and slightly big backlash I'm just gonna put the new bearing on I don't want to push on the outer race at all so I have this special race that I

Have hollowed out so when I press that'll press against the inner part of the race won't touch this outer part at all you're good to go I'm gonna install this front bearing you know the bits before it goes in I'm also

Gonna add a little bit of the gear oil it's going to go on it new crush leaves on their also gonna get oil this flange holder actually my friend bleeping Jeep makes these linked in the description of course torque

Wrenches don't love what I'm about to do and that's run it towards the top of the spec my torque wrench only goes up to 250 foot-pounds this bolt needs to be torqued to three hundred foot-pounds so I am gonna bring

It down and then there's also a spec for the rotational force for this opinion so I'll do the 250 I'll check the rotational drag and then if it needs more I'll just snug it up by hand is all I

Can really do the suspect is going to be 20 to 25 inch pounds and this measures the proper term is pinion bearing preload we're looking for 20 to 25 inch pounds we got basically nothing

Oh that lands just under 25 I'm calling it done this feels nice and smooth it's not chunky at all and there's resistance so I think we're good here hopefully the pinion depth correct and all we got to do is put the differential

Back in these bearing caps get torqued 260 foot-pounds this is encouraging it's almost exactly the same as it was before in fact it's slightly less which is even better well we'll call that yeah we'll call it eleven cuz it's up one mark

Above zero looks pretty good backlash is good gear tooth pattern is good let's get this thing back together and test drive it the problem still here so I just went to

You viewers out of my social media and just asked to see if you had any suggestions and one suggestion that came up with synthetic fluid I figure why not what's it gonna hurt to drain the fluid and put something in

Not exactly a cheap proposition but if it fixes the problem well I'm done anyway I'm gonna be installing some synthetic differential fluid 75 W 90 from a prominent company if from Indianapolis let's just put it that way

And I'm gonna try that let's take it out for a drive see what happens I hate losing new fluid but hey if it works it works right drain plugs great freakin love the drain plug best part about this diff cover I think fluid has changed

With synthetic fluid I also put some new limited-slip additive in along with that so we should be ready to go let's take it out for a drive and see if that worked

I'm gonna close the chapter on this for now mainly because I'm kind of tired of it and I don't really feel like it's a massive pride to noise it's annoying but after going through and checking my gear

Tooth pattern and checking my backlash my backlash is a little out but I mean mm really mm some have suggested that when they'd set up rear ends they'd set them up tight in other words swords the tighter side

Of the spec then I am on the loose side and let it wear in I that's probably a good practice but when I initially set this differential up I believe it was either a choice between mm clearance or 11-thousand clearance and I just went

For the higher end of the spectrum because I felt that that would be less damaging if you will but either way like I said I'm gonna walk away from this for a bit to be honest I don't know where I left off but this is where I am now I

Have removed the differential carrier and gear from the housing and I've also purchased a very expensive but super accurate tool to help me measure pinion depth it was suggested to me by summit support staff that my pinion depth may

Be too shallow based on the photographs I sent them of my gear tooth pattern so I decided to check and confirm what I had and this is what I found all right here's that tool installed on a differential and because this is such

An important part of differential assembly I'm gonna make a separate video just on using this tool and measuring pinion depth when it's available I'll link it in the description anyway so I did my measurement sadly I can't quite

Get the camera angle I want for this but let me show you what I got over on the bench according to the specs scribed on the outside of the pinion gear it is 25 1-3 inches I measure out at 25 1 1 inches that tells me my opinion depth is

Just about bang-on so me just painting everything I got lucky whatever but I've been I'm within only a couple of thousands inches of spec this leads me to conclude that it's very likely that the gears themselves are what's causing

The noise here just to recap real quick here I have brand new pinion bearings install the end properly preloaded with new races so I'm pretty certain I can rule out that the pinion bearings are the cause of this noise

I have now verified that my opinion depth is correct now my backlash was a little wide at eleven thousand sits seven to nine thousandths I believe is the spec and a lot of people say that they like to run

Them on the tight side rather than on the loose side so they can wear into spec that said I think even if this backlash was a little bit out I don't think it would cause a whining noise I would be more apt to think that might

Cause a clunking noise so I'm ruling that out and as far as carrier bearings which I have not messed with it all based on what I'm hearing and the fact that I mostly hear it on deceleration I really don't think carrier bearings are

At issue because I would think that if they were making noise it would make noise all the time and it wouldn't necessarily change in pitch the way it does so I and also I don't really see any issues with these carrier bearings

At all so I'm I'm really leaning towards that this is a gear set issue and the gear set is actually noisy I've been in communication with Summit's tech department and some of their other people there and they have agreed to

Send me this new set of Richmond gears very grateful for that not encouraged by the damaged here on the box but the fact that it was in styrofoam well that helped it out a great deal and took the brunt of the

Impact and all the gears and everything seemed to be fine so I'm relieved in that sense but I'm gonna install this new set of Richmond these are also 373 gears into the differential housing put everything back together measure it all

Up and see if the noise goes away I'm not going to cover this process in detail as I've done so in the past on this truck I'll put those videos down in the description so that you can refer to them but we'll get this all back

Together and see where we're at to help support my claim here as far as pinion depth here is the wear on the pinion and you can see most of the wears down towards the bottom very little up towards the top so I'm reluctant to say

Pinion depth is a problem because it looks well it might have been too high if anything but but according to spec I was only a couple of thousand soft so but this is the wear on the pinion head right here's a close-up of the actual

Gear wear on the ring gear on both the coast and the drive side to me everything seems to look good so that's why I'm left with thinking that it's actually the gear set that's the issue through my research I did find

That occasionally you can't find a gear set that is noisy like this hopefully this new gear sets gonna solve a problem we'll find out before the end of this video these laws were on the subject of the pinion gear something I noticed from

The onset when I installed these is that there were small chips on the teeth of the pinion gear it didn't bother me too much and when researching this problem I found out that this really isn't a major issue but it's a good idea to smooth

These out like say with a roll lock disk or something but I did notice that several of these teeth did come this way it wasn't this doesn't anything that I did but but did have some chip teeth here on this now the new gear doesn't

Have any chip teeth as far as what I can see if there were any I'd be smoothing them out before I install them and this is a mark I just go through and count the number of teeth on the ring gear and the pinion gear and divide the ring gear

By the pinion gear to make sure that my gear ratio is correct when I install these and it is in truth 373 gears is what these are but in truth that's 370 27 something whatever but anyway this gear seems to be fine whereas this one

Did have a couple of chips on it I don't know if that has anything to do with the noise though and we're back with another update and this is where we are pinion depth ended up being a 25 for 4 and spec was 25 for 8 I believe with that

Everything is installed locked itíd and torqued down to spec rotational torque on the pinion nut was right around 24 25 ish inch pounds which is also inspect so the pinion bearings are properly pre-loaded backlash came in just as it

Did before at point zero one one I actually ended up reusing the factory shims that were in this differential to begin with but I just don't have the shims to move that around I messed around with it for a couple of hours

Trying to bring it in and I just I just couldn't get it so I'm leaving the backlash there here is the gear tooth pattern which to me looks good I mean it could always be better and this is like reading tea leaves in a way of trying to

Figure out if you have everything correct but if you seem mostly in the middle you're good anyway I'm going to read gasket this thing put this differential cover back on fill it up with fluid we'll take it out for a drive

And see what we're dealing with then see if that noise is gone wish me luck well it's all buttoned up fluids in it wheels or torque let's take it out for a drive and see if we hear noise I'm very happy to be closing the chapter

On this episode of eat ECG dad's truck that rear-end noise has plagued me ever since I rebuilt this rear end last year and I was waiting for a time to get around to it initially I thought it was pinion bearings I really did I thought

Mismatching those rates that those races with new bearings was an issue and obviously it wasn't although I do recommend that practice so anytime you install a set of bearings I strongly recommend that you also install the

Races that came with those bearings because they're a match set I will probably well I know that I'm never gonna set up another differential without using that special tool not only did I spend almost $500 on it but it

Certainly makes it takes the guesswork out of pinion depth and that's huge as far as setting up a differential yeah it did take me a bit of time to figure it out and get it sorted and all that kind of thing and I'll link the video about

How to use that tool down in the description but having that tool in the arsenal when rebuilding a differential certainly goes a long way toward making the job not only easier but more accurate in my view as far as diagnosing

Noises and rear ends the last thing on the list is going to be the gears although next time I assemble over your end I will check the pinion gear for any chips on the teeth or anything like that and smooth those out that's acceptable I

Don't know if those were contributing to the noise or what the person at Summit tech line that that I spoke with seemed to think that installation was an issue I didn't really feel that I wasn't that far off of my opinion depth the wear

Patterns and everything at least to me looked normal but I'm not a person who deals with this kind of thing every day like he is we did agree on the fact that a new gear set was probably going to solve the problem and as we saw in this

Video that's exactly what it did maybe this was just some manufacturing flaw maybe it was my installation I really can't say that but the new set of gears did solve the problem in it and then I even had the same backlash with this

Setup that I did with the other set of gear so yeah I'll let you draw your own conclusions on that I'll link additional information additional videos down in the description for you to go through if you're looking for more information

If you're looking for answers to questions not covered in this video automotive questions that is I asked the head to air at the cargo comm there's lots of resources there to help you with those aside from that please be sure to

LIKE comment subscribe share the video with the world super appreciate it when you do that be safe have fun stay dirty thank you so much for watching today I hope the video was helpful I'll see you next time

you

Related Videos

Greetings viewers i am eric the car guy and i've never done an unboxing video before but this is a special occasion this is an occasion that me against the ...
Normally I make videos about super expensive overpriced flagship cellphones you know durability testing taking them apart but every now and then I like to branc...
Greetings viewers ere at the car guy today's episode we are going to install the holley super sniper efi on the fairmont let's get started and I got my ...
The Samsung Galaxy Note 10 is here and could very well be the pinnacle of all smartphones yeah its price to compete with a used Honda Civic or a round-trip flig...
The Galaxy Note 10 is usually the Swiss Army Knife of all smartphones. It's the phone that has everything and can do everything...or at least it used to be ...
Today we're gonna open up the world's first folding phone that you can actually buy the Flex five and we're gonna see how it's put together from...
The red-meat k20 pro something read me calls the Alfa flagship has been out for a while now but it's been requested by you guys quite a bit and since it&#39...
I love it. I think it's super unique. And I thought when I first started dating that my wheelchair would deter people from dating me. I never thought it wo...
Today we're going to take apart the devilishly good-looking Redmi K20 Pro. This could very well be the most bang-for-your-buck budget cellphone released so ...
Today we're going to be durability testing the Samsung Galaxy A80 – a mid-range motorized smartphone that both raises and flips at the same time. Things are...
The Galaxy Fold – an ambitious new take on what smartphones can do and what smartphones can look like. Today we're going to see what the Galaxy Fold is made...
The iPhone 11 Pro Max is definitely one of the most anticipated phone launches of the year. Apple has launched three different versions of the phone this time...
The iPhones have always been some of the most complicated phones to take apart. You'll see why over the course of this video, but there's no way we can ...
Like any new invention, the first one shows that it's possible, and the next one has more features. Ready to try it out? So it's been almost a year ...
The cheapest of the 3 iPhones released this year, the normal iPhone 11, is different enough that it warrants it's own durability test video. You do save $30...
greetings viewers and welcome to another episode of e TC g dad's truck build and in this episode or series of episodes I'm going to be dropping the fron...
if you get those codes pull your spark plugs look at them see if they need to be changed if they do change them if you've got old ignition coils that can ca...
So it might not look like it right now, but I'm in the back of a semi-truck trailer. LG brought me out to Minneapolis to show off their OLED experience – a...
Greetings viewers ere at the car guy and today's video is sponsored content but I'm happy to be bringing this to you because at the end of this video I ...
Working on is in 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse it's the hopped up version that's the GST is turbo and it's the Spyder edition you can't see that becau...