What Happened to #ETCGDadsTruck Engine?

by birtanpublished on August 17, 2020

Greetings viewers ere at the car guy and thank you so much for tuning in today yes we have dad's truck here on the lift today and my intention is to pull the engine and for those of you not up to speed when we last left off with dad's truck it was still a running and driving

Truck and the engine worked okay except for we had low compression on cylinder seven and cylinder three which I believe to be causing a loss of compression which escapes into the crankcase causes too much pressure in the crankcase and

Shoves oil out the breather and everywhere else in fact there's oil all underneath the truck that is well the symptom of what I'm dealing with here so I'm gonna be pulling the engine on the truck today not covering it in detail

But we're gonna talk about basically what I find in particular in cylinders seven and three so we'll do little updates along the way but since you've seen this engine in and out enough times I don't think I need to cover that in

Detail today what we're really interested in is what the heck went wrong with this engine so I'm to the point where I'm draining the oil and I'll be honest I don't necessarily like what I see now I know that the oil that

I put in at Shaffer oil so it's got sort of a green look to it when you first put it in but when I looked at the drain plug and sadly I already wiped it off it had what looked like a little bit of metal bits and it also had sort of a

Brown goo on there that looked like moisture was getting in here now it could be condensation it's not like I Drive this thing a lot but I am concerned about what I've seen so far I'll keep you posted

The engine is officially out of the truck now it's time to tear it down find out what's going on with it find out what went wrong fix it put it back in and motor on down the road wasn't too bad getting it out took me

About two or three hours because I'd forgotten about how some of the stuff went together but otherwise it seemed pretty straightforward to me anyway and we're back and nothing changed for you and you're like what but what I did was

I let it sit overnight and I left the drain plug out and just let it drip down into the pan I did get a little better picture I just took a quick shot of the oil that was draining out you can clearly see that there was moisture in

It I think from condensation I don't think there's a head gasket leak or anything like that but the block plugs were also removed that anything that was left in there could drain out because I even though

I've done all that I know as I spend this thing around in the engine stand I'm gonna see stuff dripping out because that's just how it happens engine stuff is messy so my next step is to tear this thing down I'm going to start by

Removing the intake and the cylinder heads well then we'll get the oil paint off and then we'll get cylinders in particular three and seven out of here and get a look at those first probably and the rest of the cylinders as well

I'm sure a lot will be a reeled once we get the cylinder heads removed but let's get to that what I did find just as an FYI for those of you with pro flow for systems is these clips I don't know if there's a special magic trick to it but

I found them somewhat difficult to deal with so I just left this on I actually designed my whole system so that all I had to do was unplug this plug and take it out so happy to have done that everything looks good here once again

Nothing's seemingly out of the ordinary one thing I do plan to do while I've got this apart I always had some kind of exhaust leak on this side of the engine and I was waiting to find out which of these ports seemed to be the culprit it

Looks like right up here on number one I think I'm gonna take the exhaust manifold to my belt sander the same way I did with the Fairmont hopefully I have more success than I did before but I think that should help out with this

Everything once again looks awesome like none of this stuff looks damaged or hurt in any way it almost looks like I assembled it last week next step is to get these rockers off of here get the push rods all out and then take the

Cylinder heads off intake manifold looks equally good just taking a look at the back of those injectors they don't look bad that one down there looks a little weird though but otherwise look like injectors I organized everything front

To back and obviously left and right so that I can keep track don't know how long it's gonna be before I reassemble so I want to make sure that I leave myself the breadcrumbs to make it easy for reassembly I'm gonna do a little

Preemptive thing put a makeshift goo catcher under here because there will be goo there's always GU I'm gonna start the outside work my way in exactly the opposite of how I put it on actually I want to see the other side first just me

Or do head bolts seem to have a weird smell it seems like every time I pull head bolts out I get a strange odor what do we have don't really see anything conclusive this would be cylinder seven here five

Three and one they all look pretty much the same seven looks a little dirtier as far as where the intake valve is the others look a little cleaner three looks good like why did that have a compression problem good

Cylinders I haven't rotated them around yet like here seven and it doesn't really look bad I mean it's got a couple of score marks they're actually five looks a little worse with that when you get the other head off and then I'll

Rotate it around and look a little closer so when it does come loose it can't fall off probably should have done that on the other side at least in my view I'm not seeing anything glaringly abnormal here I'm seeing a lot of

Sameness which I suppose is good which really leads me to question what's going on here it would be nice to see something that really stuck out so this is two four six and eight anything looks really similar on both sides nothing

Jumps out and says that I mean this is which is weird because these aren't the cylinders that had the low compression but yeah five three might have had a little bit of one but it looks like maybe a little bit of crusty oil burn

Edge there well let's flip it over and get the oil pan off one mark each piston because when I flip it over I don't know if I'll see them again so this is two four six

One three five and seven here's what the gue check catcher is gonna come in handy hopefully yeah I'm gonna take those shackles off oh that's no point out I'm glad it went there cuz that one's loose that's no

Bueno what is this and just found something and I know what it is I had issues with the dipstick that was coming into contact check it out it was coming into contact with the crankshaft so these are the little bits

Left over from that encounter yeah I have since modified that dipstick I was never happy with that dipstick because what would happen is it's flexible so as the engine would as the engine won't run the crankshaft would run it creates kind

Of a vacuum of vortex of sorts and it pulled the dipstick towards it and allowed it to make contact and that's not good so I'm gonna try very diligently to get all of this out of here before I do anything else yes

I saved the culprit so here's the dipstick that just disintegrated in here like I said it came in contact with those crank weights and we're picking out the remnants of it now I've since switch this over to this guy and what

Does this guy this guy's a coat hanger so I took a coat hanger and this this won't flex and get pulled into the crank shaft as it spins without a windage tray maybe that was coming into play here not sure maybe if I don't find anything a

Windage tray might be my fix I'm not really sure never it seemed to make it into the pickup now I'll get the oil pump off and since 7 is back here and I think we can start with that

barring doesn't look that see it cracked it you know cracked in two places there and there when you go down the line pull out the rest of the pistons and then we'll

Go over everything that I find as soon as I figure out where I put my ratchet all the crank journals and everything looked fine they look pristine in fact so I'm very happy that that part of it isn't an

Issue I'm gonna flip it over now I'm gonna try to show you some of what I'm seeing here you see along that top Ridge there there is some pitting and some issues on some of these cylinders and that's all in the area above the Rings I

Have some damage on the top of the pistons that sort of matches this but it's all above that top ring so I don't know if that's going to be a real problem or not this is a cylinder seven five there's a good one I didn't wipe

That one down enough that's what that residue is cylinder 3 pistons are what really took the hit here this is 7 I've wiped them down and done an inspection of my own on them 7 I believe is broken in two places

Yes they're also there so it's broken in those two places but I want you to look at the top of the piston on all of these that's that's what really tells the tale there's some of it there look at that looks like something took a bite out of

It it gets worse so I thought 7 and 3 were the real culprits no 8 it's kind of a close second you know there's a break right there look at that there's a break camera 8 was broken in two places but I remember there being a spot yeah right

There where it just got the living crap beat out of it and six also one that suffered quite a bit look at the top of that piston this one's also cracked looks like in two places maybe yeah that one's cracked in two places side by side

Plus look at that that piston was just getting the snot beat out of it five the Pistons in the back seem to be the ones that got it the worst not check check out the top on 5i me that chunks literal chunks that you'd just totally

Destroyed that piston it should be four so once we get up towards the front of the engine I don't really see the crack so much but the tops of these Pistons are annihilated yeah there we go there's a nice chunk missing so three we

Saw thought was had low compression I don't see that this one's broken I don't think I mean it was a little bit lower yeah they're rare there it is there's the chunky bits you it hurts me to see this when I see machines hurt like this

Yeah that burning all the way down that happened similarly on the Fairmont and that was cuz it ran too lean I'm not exactly sure what caused this I think it was a timing issue because I mean this is multi-port fuel injection

It's self learning system it should be good I said based I meet twelve degrees and everything and should have been fine but I noticed you know when I first took it out it did paying quite a bit we'll talk about this in a second let's go

Over last two pistons okay and this is two so not not so bad on two and finally one there it is look at that ouch and this sort of goes in line with what

We saw in the engine block there was a little bit in the same area but the engine block is cast-iron this is aluminum or aluminium dependent upon where you're from all right let's talk about this

I feel the mystery is solved and that is there is piston damage allowing the compression to sneak past those Pistons and get down into the crankcase and cause excessive crankcase pressure basically creating a bunch of oil leaks

And any oil leaks that were there making them ten times worse I think this is also evident by the breather so you look at this and you can see that it's completely saturated with the oil it shouldn't be that way also going back

To the compression numbers remember these from way back when it's interesting that things like cylinder number five had 155 compression at the time yet number five piston was pretty well

Wrecked so the compression numbers only seem to tell part of the story number eight was also a little low and six six and eight I think on a new engine I should have seen everything all the same I should have seen all 150 s I think and

It's weird that I saw 150 five on five I'm not really sure I can account for that what caused this well I have a theory but I can't say I know exactly now the similar thing happened on the Fairmont and that was due to it running

Lean during its initial tuning and that's caused too much heat in the combustion chamber and basically destroyed my piston and my piston rings in this case I don't think that's the case because we're not running forced

Induction multi-port fuel injection system with a base tune in it and it's I mean the the cam isn't radical either so I don't I don't think it was a question of it running lean I don't I don't think this was a mixture problem I think this

Was a timing problem and I say this based on the fact that when I first took the truck out for its initial ring break-in and I pinned it to the floor that thing ping like crazy and I was like whoa and I backed off and I was

Sort of gentle with it but any acceleration any throttle would result in some pain so I brought it back and in order to get the pinging to go away I had to take the timing way back now I set base timing

You take the computer out of the equation you set it to 12 degrees that's the was the setup so that was that was locked in that was set but you can't go in and adjust it now I noticed that I think the tune that they had in there

Had it at 30 degrees of total timing which means the amount of time at the maximum amount of timing that you can get you know with the advance and everything and I kept backing it off in that and I think I had to get it down to

Somewhere like maybe five or six degrees of advance like that's all it would give in order for it to stop paying now the thing about detonation and pre-ignition is like by the time you hear it it's too late

So if you put it on a scale to 1 to 10 you don't start hearing that stuff until like it's at 7 and by then it's it's too late and that's where we're at I've been ruminating on this post dissection and I believe I've come up

With a theory as to what happened to those Pistons and I think detonation is what caused that damage and for those of you not familiar with what detonation is detonation is a flame front that is started in the combustion chamber that

Was not ignited by the spark plug and it can happen either before or after the spark plug in nights during normal combustion what happens the piston comes up compresses the air fuel mixture and the spark plug in just the right time

Lights that mixture off and sends the piston down the sternum that chemical energy into mechanical energy and all is right with the world when detonation happens the piston could be coming up and a flame front starts or

It could be already up and several flame fronts start and just start beating the crap out of the top of that piston and the evidence based on what I just showed you is what you get as a result now I have a theory as to what caused that

Detonation and I think the compression ratio of the engine was too high I was running flat top Pistons and you might remember from when I went to the machine shop the machinist had also decked the block in other words machine the top of

The block so that when the piston came up to the top of its travel it was flush with the top of the block and we squared Ekta block set it to 9 inch deck height and that would put our compression ratio where we wanted to be because it was

Actually the the Pistons would have been about 20 25 thousandths in the hole and we want them flush we want him 0 right flush with the deck of the block for now smaller combustion chambers in higher compression

For more power which is excellent but when I ran my numbers through the compression calculator it came out to eleven to one which in my opinion for pump gas and an engine like this is too much and could cause things like that

Nation and a damage that we saw in fact I think I damaged this engine from the moment I took it out and I'm basing this theory in part on my experiences here but the first time I took it out I didn't record it and sorry about that

But I hit the gas to break the Rings in and all that and it started rattling like crazy that's when the dipstick blew out that's when all the oil came out and honestly I think that's when that engine broke I think from that moment on it was

Broken and the reason why I say compression ratio is because I couldn't get it to stop pinging with any amount of throttle until I backed the timing way off initially the pro flow force system sets it up for 28 degrees of

Total timing and that is not a whole lot well that's that's let's call it a safe amount of timing and I had to back that down to like maybe 5 degrees of advance off of the 12 degrees base timing that it had in order to get it to behave to

Stop pinging so that I could drive it so I'm saying the compression ratio was high causing detonation now I've obtained a set of low compression pistons from Summit that I intend to install to bring the

Compression ratio down and with these lower compression pistons my compression ratio should come in the neighborhood of 9.8 7 to 1 so just below 10 to 1 and that I feel for this engine on the street on pump gas is going to work out

I mean I'll put the thing together and we'll find out but I think ultimately that's what happened and I'm sure you're gonna offer your opinions down in the comments and I'm curious as to read them and as far as the damage that you saw

Here and based on what I've just relayed to you so if you have further questions I'll try and answer them but this is the direction that I'm going I'm putting lower compression Pistons in and I believe that's going to solve the

Problem once and for all not faulting the machinist or anything like that on there I never asked what the compression ratio was and we never really discussed it other than I wanted to drive the truck on the

Street that's about as far as we got with it but I'm not gonna try to lay blame here I'm just gonna try to fix the problem and move on so I can drive my stinking truck that's all I really care about anyway if you have automotive

Questions I'll put a link in the description to air at the car guy calm I'm also going to throw a link to that compression ratio calculator because I thought that was kind of useful so check the description for that and additional

Videos and information please be sure to LIKE comment subscribe share the video with the world appreciate it when you do that stuff be safe have fun stay dirty thank you so much for watching today and I will see you next time

Related Videos

Greetings viewers i am eric the car guy and i've never done an unboxing video before but this is a special occasion this is an occasion that me against the ...
Normally I make videos about super expensive overpriced flagship cellphones you know durability testing taking them apart but every now and then I like to branc...
Greetings viewers ere at the car guy today's episode we are going to install the holley super sniper efi on the fairmont let's get started and I got my ...
The Samsung Galaxy Note 10 is here and could very well be the pinnacle of all smartphones yeah its price to compete with a used Honda Civic or a round-trip flig...
The Galaxy Note 10 is usually the Swiss Army Knife of all smartphones. It's the phone that has everything and can do everything...or at least it used to be ...
Today we're gonna open up the world's first folding phone that you can actually buy the Flex five and we're gonna see how it's put together from...
The red-meat k20 pro something read me calls the Alfa flagship has been out for a while now but it's been requested by you guys quite a bit and since it&#39...
I love it. I think it's super unique. And I thought when I first started dating that my wheelchair would deter people from dating me. I never thought it wo...
Today we're going to take apart the devilishly good-looking Redmi K20 Pro. This could very well be the most bang-for-your-buck budget cellphone released so ...
Today we're going to be durability testing the Samsung Galaxy A80 – a mid-range motorized smartphone that both raises and flips at the same time. Things are...
The Galaxy Fold – an ambitious new take on what smartphones can do and what smartphones can look like. Today we're going to see what the Galaxy Fold is made...
The iPhone 11 Pro Max is definitely one of the most anticipated phone launches of the year. Apple has launched three different versions of the phone this time...
The iPhones have always been some of the most complicated phones to take apart. You'll see why over the course of this video, but there's no way we can ...
Like any new invention, the first one shows that it's possible, and the next one has more features. Ready to try it out? So it's been almost a year ...
The cheapest of the 3 iPhones released this year, the normal iPhone 11, is different enough that it warrants it's own durability test video. You do save $30...
greetings viewers and welcome to another episode of e TC g dad's truck build and in this episode or series of episodes I'm going to be dropping the fron...
if you get those codes pull your spark plugs look at them see if they need to be changed if they do change them if you've got old ignition coils that can ca...
So it might not look like it right now, but I'm in the back of a semi-truck trailer. LG brought me out to Minneapolis to show off their OLED experience – a...
Greetings viewers ere at the car guy and today's video is sponsored content but I'm happy to be bringing this to you because at the end of this video I ...
Working on is in 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse it's the hopped up version that's the GST is turbo and it's the Spyder edition you can't see that becau...