Last Minute Prep and Problems #ETCGDadsTruck

by birtanpublished on August 29, 2020

Greetings viewers Aerith car guy I wish I had better news for you today anyway I'll just get right to it the truck is back together I got it back together last week before I left for the Carlisle Ford nationals 2019 and I took it out to seed in the Rings and on that test drive

I did notice a bit of oil smoke coming out but seeing in the Rings at least for me means running it at full throttle up to the red line and then decelerating you know down shifting that kind of thing trying to load the Rings in both

Directions so that they see it in well anyway I'm doing this I did notice some oil smoke and I did smell some oil but I thought that that was the ring sitting in well apparently what had happened was the dipstick blew out of its tube and

I'll show you in a second here it is it comes out very very easily and I'm going to make provisions to hold it in place in the future but also have concerns about the pressure inside the of the engine obviously so in addition to

Holding the dipstick in I'm also going to change the breather that I have the breather that I have now is pretty but I'm not sure if it functions as well as one that's just a complete open filter and I'll show you that in a moment also

This is the vent that was on the truck the only place to convince out of these holes I prefer the bigger style like what I've got on the Fairmont and hopefully that's gonna do the trick along with the dipstick coming out a

Bunch of oil went with it I don't know how much went with it but I got back and the dipstick was dry and well you know the inside of the engine compartments coated with oil and then as soon as it got in front of the shop it started

Making a bad noise which I'll share with you now so everything indicates every indication that I see says that I need to go back in there tear the engine down and find out what's going on with it now I'm gonna pull this out but before I do

I'm gonna get to the point where I've got the cylinder heads or the headers off and I'm gonna do a compression test just to check to see what's going on and if I find a cylinder that's low because it kind of shakes a little bit too if I

Find a cylinder that's low then I'm gonna do a quick leap down on that cylinder to see if I can determine where that's going but either way it appears the engine is coming back out after I just got it in and by the way this is

The Monday before we're supposed to leave for the power tour on Friday and I don't know what's going on I haven't ordered parts or anything yet so no stress or anything here's the new dipstick and I had to use

This one because the old one it just wouldn't bolt up with the headers and everything the downside is is I had to drill the block out a little bit larger in order to accept this new dipstick which is

Also unfortunate but like very little effort like no effort at all so there's that issue cylinder number seven the spark plug boot had popped off of the spark plug down there and it was resting against the header that was the only

Other thing that I found when I got back from that test drive where I was breaking the Rings in there was a little bit of damage to this spark plug wire so I'm just gonna replace it thankfully the kit came with one extra this is what it

Sounds like when I started up and you could see the next shakes also it's on that deceleration and the fact that I see oil coming out here says that this is something similar to what I ran into with the Ford

Or it might be and then I got a cylinder problem either way it's got to come apart it's got to come out well it's got to come out it didn't come apart and I'm very sad because I worked hard on that engine

It's very pretty and something is small and seemingly insignificant as a dipstick and the fact that I ignored the oil smoke brought me to where I am today but there's no use crying over that now I think it's obvious I'm not gonna be

Doing a step by step of the removal of this engine I simply do not have the time I'll let you know what I find when I find it I've just completed the compression test and I'll show you what I found the only cylinder that I'm

Really concerned about is seven here and that was the one that the spark plug boot came off of the first time I did it it was 130 but then I went to 135 but I had the same thing on cylinder number three this vent I have a one inch vent

In the valve cover so I'm gonna get that filter I spoke about earlier and this my exhaust is two and a quarter coming out of the muffler since I'm probably not gonna have time to get to the exhaust shop I'm just gonna get a couple of turn

Downs to come off the muffler and go straight down it's still exiting past the cab of the vehicle so it would technically be considered legal I've let the coolant drain out so now it's time to well get this front end off and get

This engine out of here I think this time I'm going to try to leave the transmission in the truck and just take the engine I have the engine out was a little messy but not too messy so I'm going to mount this on the engine stand

And I was sizing up the bolts for the flex plate and look what I found and I mean they were like this like there was that one's tight and that one's that the rest are all loose which will allow that to flop around and make noise the smart

Play would be to drop the oil pan and just take a look at some of the bearings maybe not do anything with them but just take a look and if the bearings that I pull look good then it's time for Loctite for these guys

Super torquing and putting this thing back in which means I don't have to buy any parts which is great because that saves me a ton of time and I can focus on the alignment some of the other stuff been doing some research I went around

To a few forums and and you know was checking whether or not using locked Tut in the fasteners was appropriate or not so I went to the source I'm using ARP fasteners I went to ARP and and pulled up the instructions which you know you

Should probably read and I didn't read the instructions on these I just lubricated the threads with air pea lubricant ran them down with an impact like you saw me do smiled at the camera and say this is what I'm doing well here

We are now I'm not afraid to share my failures but like I said there was some debit there was some debate online whether or not to use lock type but here on a RPS website in their instructions number four it says right there

Lubricate the threads of the bolt with Loctite to 42 and under the head of the bolt with arp ultra-torque fastener assembly lubricant so in other words they say to use lock tight on the threads and they are assembly lube

Underneath the head so that when you're torquing things to 85 foot-pounds they stay put so straight from ARP the people that made these fasteners and honestly I trust their judgment this is all they do is make fasteners lock tight on the

Threads and the fastener lubricant underneath the bolt head and torque to 85 foot-pounds that's exactly what I'm gonna do now I've been debating on whether or not to pull this oil pan off for the past few minutes I didn't see

Anything bad in the oil and thinking about the noise whenever I read the engine it went away but on deceleration or as the engine was coming down to idle that's when I heard the noise and it makes perfect sense that it was the

Flexplate in fact when you come over here and look at the flex plate you could even see where the paint has come loose and there's even some rust marks here so there's witness marks that are telling me that yes this was loose and

Most likely was the problem I feel like opening up the engine at this point is kind of a step backwards especially since I found this this is an easy fix I can get it back together and hopefully running either later today or

Early tomorrow which is the goal one more thing I'm going to do while I'm in here you know since I'm not going to go down I'm nest of the bearings or anything I'm gonna go through the engine and redo all

Of the lifter adjustments and I talked to my machinist about this and he kind of agrees something cuz every time I've installed lifters they come out noisy and I'm following the instructions so in other words keep spinning them when it

Stops spinning give it a half turn more and that sets them well I'm not doing a half turn anymore I'm going to full turn and the reason for that is is because on just about every hydraulic lifter thing I've done recently including the Ford

I've had an issue with those coming loose and making noise so I'm just gonna nip that in the bud right now and I'm just gonna go full turn whenever I adjust my rocker arms and hopefully I'll be done with it but that's something

Else that I'll share with you that I hope you can benefit from if you're building any small-block Chevy or in this case also a small-block forward with that little bit of advise assembly Lube under the bolt head lock tight on

The threads just running them down with the impact according to procedure with the Loctite hopefully they stay put then I went through and adjusted lift or preload and instead of doing the half turn like I

Did initially I went back and did a full turn I have an update for you viewers I've got the torque converter in and all the other stuff right here is where I'm putting the transmission temperature sensor and what I've noticed is you I

Had to trim this down and I turned it down as much as I could but this protrudes down into the transmission quite a ways I'm told this is the first gear pressure port and the fact that when I took it out for a test drive I

Basically had no first gear it would go into first and then almost immediately in a second I'm wondering if what was happening as I was blocking the port off with this I've asked monster transmission about it I'm still waiting

To hear back from him but I have a possible solution for this problem it's kind of a cheesy solution but I'm extending everything out so there's this then this then this so basically I'm stacking all these three things together

To basically extend this out so that this won't go in and block the port off this big opening on the inside I'm hoping well allow everything to flow through like it should on the dipstick tube which was a major issue also a trip

To the hardware store I got a couple of well I'm not exactly sure what to call these but you're able to twist them by hand so what I'm going to do is I'm going to run this into here drill and tap it so that can lock the dipstick

Into place I've already measured and I can go right at the top of here and I'll be up above the o-ring when I do this but that should lock the dipstick in place so that hopefully it doesn't pop out again I've also ordered a breather a

Different breather for the top that has a filter with an opening all the way around so hopefully that will allow more crank has case pressure to be vented during a harsh acceleration we'll call it here's the

Solution for the dipstick it just thread then I just tweak it tighten it down the dipstick goes no we're locked in and we're almost back together I've got the exhaust on and transmission and all that stuff is pretty much ready to go but

Here's another issue so I had to drive shaft company shorten my drive shaft I asked for an inch and 3/4 they went almost three inches now luckily I've got this long slipped yoke but also luckily dad gave me the other axle that I

Estimate came with the manual transmission so I sent that to them and had them cut that to length based on the measurement that I did between here and the tip of the yoke here in this flange this measurement I think was like 51 and

A quarter inches or something like that 58 anyway so I gave them a direct measurement this time so I should have the correct drive shaft however I'm concerned because they didn't balance it and they took one of the weights off

Apparently they can't balance it without this yoke on there I'm just gonna move forward and I'm gonna remove this axle I'm going to take this u-joint and everything out of here and swap it over to the new one same with this u-joint

Back here so here's the new axle like I said it's a little bit longer but I've got to swap over you joints in the yoke hopefully it will sit in farther in the transmission alright everything is back together I've filled up the coolant that

I took out of it it has oil in it as well transmission fluid in it we didn't lose all that much it's back together just enough to start it I decided to forego the actual issue for now I really just want to know if it starts up and

Runs without noise so you will be here to learn that with me right now let's turn the keys see what happens yeah you know what before I actually crank it over let's see if it holds that fuel pressure make sure I don't have any fuel

Leaks anywhere it is looks like it's gone up to 50 psi and it doesn't seem to be dropping at all fire extinguishers behind the back seat if I need it hopefully I don't there goes found it spark plug wires eight and six

Have been switched plug wires are back to where they should be let's try again I think I still have ignition wires not right I'm gonna go through all them that time I had wires one and three switched

One eight six five four three seven two it goes in a clockwise rotation third time's a charm no noise okay I'm going to set base timing and well we'll go from there

Base timings been set it's a little shaky but happy no more noise coolant circulated through it timings been set now I'm gonna put the rest of this thing

Together and mess with that driveshaft really happy it was an easy fix that is so much better from what it was much more comfortable with that then I was before my only concern is for the possibility of a vibration I also

Adjusted the angle of the transmission a little bit there was this giant spacer that I did put on the underside here that I sense moved to the top and the reason I did that is because when I came back here to the pinion and I checked my

Pinion angle it was about 7 degrees so I came up here and checked it and it was a little more than that so I wanted to make it even and and just putting this shim underneath the transmission made this seven degrees in the opposite

Direction so in other words what you want when this is on the ground is you want the transmission and the differential to being a straight line and the axle just takes up the space so in other words the angle of this needs

To be just the opposite of this in an equal amount so if this seven degree is positive then this needs to be seven degrees negative is is kind of what I'm talking about and it is exactly that now so when I put

This up this is a roughly seven degrees and so is the back if I'm off I'm only off by about a half a degree but much happier with the way this slip joint fits in the back of the transmission I don't feel like that's gonna fall out

Like I did before and I was able to put it on here without any difficulty at all so this was just out far enough so if you got to do this till the actual shop the measurement between here and the output shaft of the transmission for

Best results you might be wondering was there a vibration because the driveshaft wasn't balanced well I've been driving it and so far I haven't noticed any abnormal vibrations I did find an oil leak initially I thought it was coming

From this valve cover on this side but it turns out where the oil pressure switch or the oil yeah the oil pressure get a gauge or a sensor comes out of the back where it comes out of the top of the block it's

Leaking there so I'm going to remove that reseal it put it back in and hopefully that will solve this oil leak that I'm seeing that it tends to drip off of this bolt but it's coming down from up top it's right down there at the

Base of that piece that's coming up that the oil pressure sensor is coming out of that's leaking right down there at the block it's all sealed up now put teflon tape on all the connections no more leaks

One thing I forgot to mention when I took it out on its initial test drive what I noticed was the front tires were coming in contact with the inner fender lip so when I brought it back in I took the opportunity to quote-unquote

Roll the fenders so I wouldn't heat things up with a heat gun to about anywhere between 140 to 160 degrees and then I would just hit it with my mallet until I rolled things into place or bent things into place this took a little bit

Of doing but it was successful and now the tire does not come in contact with the inner fender lip anymore now as I said throughout this video is time was a big factor in all this in fact I think I shot this like the Monday or the Tuesday

Before Thursday that week when dad was supposed to show up in Friday morning we were leaving on the power tour so having to take the engine out and all that kind of stuff in that amount of time and this was after I went to the Ford Nationals

In Carlisle Pennsylvania the week before that it was at the Indianapolis 500 so I was trying to get all this done in a very short period of time there was a lot going on super grateful that all it was was the flexplate bolts that were

Causing that engine noise really super grateful on that that I didn't have to go back in and tear the engine down I don't really regret not going back in and checking everything because well it's it's been fine since then although

Yes those compression numbers were of concern and for those of you that have that concern along with the oil leak and everything I'm going to be covering that in a future video in fact I haven't even gotten into that yet and this is like

Months after I actually completed the truck I've basically been spending the summer trying to edit the videos and get those out so that you could see them but Bryan's gonna be back from Africa well Brian wasn't Africa for a bit this

Summer also I was doing the editing so we're gonna get back together here in the next week or so and get a look at that engine find out what's going on with those compression numbers find out what's causing that

Excess crankcase pressure so if you're looking for an answer to that it is forthcoming it's just not here quite yet however in the next episode dad meets the truck for the first time so you want to tune in for that you get a chance to

See what dad thinks of it he gets to drive it and get his impressions of the truck he owned it for 12 years before he gave it to me so if anybody's going to know how much it's changed it would be him next week's episode be sure to tune

In for that and if you haven't caught up on the other episodes the eat ECG dad's truck series I did a ton of work for this truck link down in the description this playlist so you can kick back grab some popcorn and watch it

All links to parts tools additional information stuff like that down in the description also a link to air at the cargo comm which is where I asked you go if you have automotive questions I want to thank you for watching please be sure

To LIKE comment subscribe share the video all that kind of stuff tell everybody how cool the etcd does truck project is be safe have fun stay dirty thank you so much for watching and I'll see you next time

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