Methods to Shave with a Security Razor – Double-Edged Razor Shaving

published on July 2, 2020

Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette
In today's video, we discuss how to shave

with a double-edged safety razor

So how do you shave with a double-edged safety razor?

Well first, I will show you the
classic technique of how to get there

and then I will show you a much faster
way that gives you the same, smooth results

Whenever you shave with a sharp
light, step number one is always a

pre-shave routine; you can't emphasize it enough

So what does it mean? Well for one, you can take a hot shower that makes your hair soft

If you don't want a shower, you can use a wet towel The way I do it is I just make a

towel wet, put it in the microwave for a
minute, and that's plenty hot and I put

it in my face and let it rest there It's
very comforting, but it also helps my

hair to get soft If that's too much time
for you, you can also splash your face

with hot water for a minute or two, until
you can feel your hair is getting soft

Step one of two: apply shaving cream or
shaving a lather to your face

If you're a hurry, I suggest you get shaving cream from a tube Never use aerosol cans

because it don't have enough fat You can
also use a shaving soap but you'll need

a brush to lather it up and it takes a
bit more time

That being said, using the shaving brush
is probably the best way because it puts

the lather all around the hair It also
may help to move your hair slightly away

from your face, which makes the shave

If you wanna learn more but why aerosol cans are so bad, please check out this video here

Once with the shaving cream or a lather on your face, it's time to actually shave

First, by this point, you should've loaded up your head with the blade and make sure it's all straight

and not in there crooked, because you
don't want to cut yourself

Go the first passes to remove any excess hair so you can then shave in a second or maybe

sometimes, a third pass to get that
perfectly smooth results I mean just

starting out, I always suggest to stand in front of the mirror and look at the growth

erections of your beard hair before you
even start shaving or lathering up

If you can't remember how your beard grows, maybe you take a little pen and paper, and draw
on the directions you think your hair is

growing it Honestly, it's very simple
Just look at it closely and you'll see it

Why is it important to do that?
Well, in the first pass, you want to shave in

the direction of your hair grain which
is much less stressful on your skin

Honestly, every man has a slightly
different growth direction and so it's

hard to make blanket statements
Personally, I've memorized my growth

direction so I know exactly in what way
I have to shave When you make a pass,

always ensure that your skin is tight or
stretched because if there's loose skin,

you're much more likely to cut yourself
So what does it mean specifically?

Well, I always use my free left hand to
stretch my skin just in the area where

I'm gonna shave next That can mean
pulling your sideburn overhead or you

just pull your skin in that area just
before the razor blade goes over it

Sometimes around your cheeks, you can
also just puff your cheeks to get enough

air there to make sure the skin is tight
In the area below your nose and your

mouth, you can also tighten your skin
with your muscles or just use your

tongue from the inside
Depending on the head of your double edge razor you

should hold your handle at an angle of
about 30 to 45 degrees You'll hear what

the right angle is once you do the pass
When you do the pass, you want to be very

gentle on the skin Don't have any strong
pressure, just use gravity to slide down

on your face Ensure that you make short
and slow strokes which are also known as

passes When you start, make sure you
shave in straight strokes the 90-degree

angle to the blade, that way you're less
likely to cut yourself Once you're a

little more advanced, You can also have a
slight stride; which means you go at a

slight angle because this kind of
movement creates a stronger cutting

motion Alternatively, you could get a
handle that is slightly angled so if you

pull down your handle straight it always
cuts the hair at an angle, therefore,

enhancing the cutting motion just like
on a guillotine Frankly, I only suggest those

angled heads for people with very thick
hair because it makes for a more

aggressive razor And what's the problem
with that?

Well, if you have just very thin beard
hair, you still get the same result with

a less aggressive razor and your skin
will thank you for it Once you're done

with one or two strokes, just switch the
handle to the other side and use the

other plate Repeat once or twice
Now, it's time to rinse the plate

You can either do it under running water or in a sink that's filled with water

If you feel any kind of pulling or any pain
when you shave with a DE razor, it either

means that you didn't do a proper
pre-shave routine or that your blade is dull

Now if you use shave cream, you can
clearly see where you've already shaved

Personally, I like to have a little bit
of extra shaving cream in my free hand

so I can apply it after each pass,
because you can't have too much shaving

cream on your skin when you shave it
because it protects it In the beginning, it may be

tempting to go over the same area three
or four times without reapplying shaving

cream; but trust me, it's better to have
new shaving cream on there every time

before you shave That being said,
you're just learning a technique;

everything is gonna take you a lot
longer and so by the time you make it

from your right side to the left side,
you may already get this drying feeling

on your face Now you don't want a dry
shaving cream because it clogs up and it

prevents the skin protection Therefore,
if you can feel that it gets a little

drier, wet your hand go over the area
again, and maybe reapply a little bit of

lather or shaving cream just so
everything is fresh before you shave

over it The tricky areas are usually
right underneath your nose and

underneath your mouth, and again I use my
tongue and some puff air to make sure the

skin isn't straight in those areas Also,
around your jawline, it can be hard to

get it smooth all the way along, so what
I do is I pull up my skin and make sure

that this skin here is up here so it's
straight that I can shave it smoothly and

I get that smooth results Every man has
different problem areas For example,

underneath my right ear, I always have to
go in a different direction, otherwise, it

doesn't get all the hair The chin is another area or it can be a little bit difficult

Again, use your fingers and
your face muscles to keep the skin tight

Just shave in different directions,
always reapplying the shaving cream

After you're done with the first pass there may
be still some residual hair in certain

places That's when it's time for the
second pass, so you put shaving cream on

your face with your hand or you lather
up and use the shaving brush and then

you cut this time across the drain
What does it mean? Not against, but at a

90-degree angle to what you did before
Again, pull your skin tight and shave in

the same manner as we did before, just at
a 90-degree angle

Most men are done after that pass but if
you have thicker hair or if you want an

even better and closer shave, you do a
third pass; this time, shaving against the grain

If I do this, it cuts my hair below
the skin level and even after 24 hours,

my face is just as smooth as if I would
have just shaved it with an electric shaver

I know it sounds too good to be
true but my wife is amazed every time

she feels my smooth baby butt-like skin
in my face When you shave against the

grain, it can feel more aggressive on
your skin and you can also hear the

cutting motion more, I think It's just
because you're literally going against

the grain
Once you're done with the third pass, it's time to

splash your face with cold water
Some people use ice water because they

believe it helps your skin to kind of
close all the pores, and therefore stop

any kind of bleeding I find regular cold
tap water is just fine

Afterwards, very important to add a post-shave balm or product Every company that

offers shaving creams also has post-shave products, some smell a little more

The traditional old-school all alcohol
is not recommended because it dries out

your skin Obviously, there are tons of
product in all kinds of price ranges and

you can learn more about them in our
in-depth shaving guide

I have found that an inexpensive Nivea
aftershave balm for sensitive skin is a

great product and it doesn't cost much
The result of a DE shave is superior to

any cartridge razor shave and on par with
systems like Supply or OneBlade

Some may argue it's not quite as good as shaving
with a straight razor, but that also

takes a lot longer and it's even more
technique In my mind, a straight razor is

not something I would use on an everyday
basis simply because it takes too long

It's more something you'd use on the weekends

when you want to enjoy the shaving
process And now the big question is, how

can you achieve that same result of a DE
shave just a lot faster?

Well, let me share with you my shaving routine, which is geared towards the best result in the shortest amount of time

First, I start by taking a warm shower; not doing any other prep work with towels

or just splashing my face
Just taking a regular shower the way I would normally

already does enough to get my hair in the right condition

Two, I apply shaving cream out of the tube
with my hands because that way, I don't

have to lather up and I don't have to
clean the brush and it's super quick

The third step, I use an electric shaver to
get rid of all the excess hair in my

face this is the equivalent of the first
and maybe the second pass, but it's a lot

faster and you don't have to pay
attention to cutting yourself because

electric shavers are pretty good that
way All you have to ensure is that your

electric shaver is meant to get wet
because if it doesn't, you have a problem

I prefer to be a wet electric shave
compared to a dry electric shave simply

because it gets a much closer shave it
has a much better job so once aligned

with the electric shaver
I simply reapplied a shave cream with my

hand and go against the grain, once
The advantage is that my blades

last a lot longer that way because it's
just one pass, not two or three

Afterwards, I clean up with cold water
and add my post-shave balm; and I can do

all of this in about five to six minutes
Of course, when you're starting out, it

may take you a little longer and this
method has a disadvantage that you also

have to invest in a waterproof electric
shaver, which can add two or three hundred

bucks to the overall upfront investment,
but for me, it's totally worth it because

it saves me the time And if you're
honest with your time,I think it'll be

worth it for you too Just calculate how
much time you would save over the course

of a year, two years, or five years
Alright, I've given everything you need to

know about how to shave with a DE razor
in a classic way, as well the time-saving way

If you want to learn more about
shaving, check out the shaving guide here

In today's video, I'm wearing a
combination of an orange

salmon-colored shirt with a fair isle
knit vest in brown I'm combining it with

a light beige herringbone tweed jacket,
and a Prince of Wales check bow tie in

burgundy It's from Fort Belvedere, just like the silk wool pocket square which picks

up these earthy tones of red, brown, green
and yellow

My pants are mid-round corduroys and I'm
combining them with Fort Belvedere socks

in charcoal and orange shadow stripes,
which afar creates a look of something

brownish, which goes well with the pants
as well as the olive green Derby shoes

but it provides enough contrast and
picks up the orange and warmer tones in

the other parts of my outfit

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