How To Install a Holley Super Sniper EFI

by birtanpublished on October 4, 2020

Greetings viewers ere at the car guy today's episode we are going to install the holley super sniper efi on the fairmont let's get started and I got my holley super sniper efi from Summit Racing step 1 remove the engine and transmission no you don't need to remove the engine and transmission I took the engine and transmission out because in addition to installing the Holley super sniper EFI I also had some lifter issues and I had to replace those but the lifters I had in there required two removal for the cylinder heads to get to them hence the reason the engine came out but it's all back together

Ready to go back in and I have things set up for the wiring of the super Sniper EFI which will start with over on the wiring diagram and then I'll show you what I'm doing on the car here is the basic wiring setup for this the sniper EFI has many capabilities many inputs and outputs that are programmable those are going to be specific to your application my installation is only going to be the bare minimum in order to make this thing run I'm not going to hook up any fuel pump relays or anything like that I already have that hooked up in my

Vehicle the things that I have hooked up now are a power and ground going to the battery this is extremely important they mentioned this a lot in the notes of the instructions but you need to take your power and ground directly on the battery the other thing you'll need is a switched ignition hot so in other words as you crank the engine you need to have a power source that goes to this that stays hot during crank as far as coil hookup that's going to depend on your setup whether or not you have an ignition coil like this or a CD box like I have I'm doing the CD box wiring and

I'm only going to be using this purple wire which is already connected in the vehicle it needs a tach input which I have ready to wire up and this is the tach output on this wiring harness as I said you can control many different things with this but the one output I'm concerned about in this harness is just this brown wire for the tach output for my – I'll put a link in the description to the full instructions for this so you can look all this over and figure it out how to make it work in your application this 7 pin connector is the main harness going into the vehicle so this is the

One you need the most this is the one that has power and ground the pink is going to be the switched ignition hot and these the green and the purple here go into a special connector that just chokes down into this purple connector that's gonna go into the attack output of my CD box in the back there so this is the main harness so to speak and I have this passing through the firewall up under the dash so I'll show you in a second the 10 pin harness has many of the controllable inputs and outputs on it but the only one I'm concerned with is the tach output and

That I'll show you how I'm wiring that up inside but all this other stuff I'm really just gonna tie off for now because eventually I would like to set this up so that I can have cooling fan control but my cooling fan controls are set up perfectly now and I'm just going to leave them alone just so I can get this thing in and running something I forgot to share with you is that I had already run the cable for this display in communication between the ECU on the sniper EFI and the engine through the same location that I ran all the other wires so this was also through there and

There's something else I want to show you with this as well so in addition to being able to plug in the interface that's up on the dash they also supplied this cable which has this USB connection and I suspect that so you can hook it up to a laptop maybe do Diagnostics or maybe put other tunes in it I'm really not sure but just know that this this can plug into that same terminal that goes to the ECU on top of the engine ok on the other side of the firewall up under my – I've got the main power and ground that are here I've got the pink ignition switch ignition hot source or

Crank hot this is the purple wire that is going to be the tach input to the computer and this brown wire is going to be the tach output to my – so I need to connect up all of these with what I have in the vehicle I've modified the harness that came with a super sniper EFI as stated I already have a fuel pump relay wired up hooked up the way I like it I'm gonna leave that as is but the unit still needs to be powered up via the same harness and they have this 30 amp inline fuse that I'm going to employ the wires that I will show you in a moment this is the power and ground coming back

To the battery which I'm going to connect and I'm going to connect the power through this fuse right here so it will go through this in case there's ever an issue and we'll pop this fuse these wires lead up through behind the backseat to let me show you it's over here on the floor I have the power and ground wires that I'm going to run over the transmission hump there I also have a purple wire for the tack input and the brown wire for the tack output ready to go over here also it looks like a mess right now wiring does I wait until the end to

Clean everything up once I've got the length and everything correct in fact you might be able to see down here what I did with the old harness so that's what I kind of intend to do unfortunately I can't roll this into this harness but that's okay I don't mind having a separate harness for the fuel injection for this under the dash here I have this fuse which already hooks up to my ignition system and this is switched ignition hot so what I've done is I've kind of piggybacked on to it they say not to do stuff like this but this is just the ignition hot source

So I'm not as concerned but you see right off this connector that is fused I put a 75mm fuse in this this will be the power going into the ignition hot I was already running a coolant temperature gauge on the car and that was plugged into this part of the intake which is the crossover that goes in between it – I still want to have my coolant temperature registering on the dash so I still want to have my temperature gauge so what I've done is I've purchased a new thermostat housing and installed my old temperature gauge Center unit here on this side of the thermostat so so

What if I don't see temperature until after my thermostat starts opening up which I don't mind that it's I'll know if my thermostats opening and closing the way this is set up but the computer needs the engine temperature all the time so this is more important that the computer gets its temperature from here so I just move my gauge up to here on that side of the thermostat in addition to knowing coolant temperature the all-important wideband o2 sensor is extremely important in this whole thing because this is basically when it's a closed loop gonna allow the computer to

Learn and calibrate a fuel mixture based on that Marti running a wideband on this so that I have my air fuel gauge on the dash what I've done to future-proof everything is underneath here right here is another bung that I can screw the o2 sensor into so I've already welded in a bung onto my exhaust so that I could do that you however Holley provide you with this as an alternative to doing any welding on your exhaust you can't get an o2 sensor bung and drill and weld it in if you're capable of doing that but you don't have to all you need is to drill a

Hole in the exhaust I don't know maybe like a three-quarter size it says in the instructions exactly which size hole to drill then you can install this and clamp it on to the pipe and this should work now important note about this is this needs to be placed on top of the pipe so in other words it can't be placed down on the bottom like this because moisture and things will collect in there so it's got to be up high number one and also the closer to the engine the better because this thing works when it gets hot the faster this can warm up the better and go into

Closed-loop a lot quicker so try to get close to the engine and keep this away from moisture by mounting it up top normally you would have this fuel pump relay and everything hooked up inside of your main harness I cut mine out and I'm sure Holly wasn't happy about that I also removed the yellow coil negative wire from that harness because I'm not using it in my application do you remember when I said that you should hook directly to the battery and not some other power Junction this is the main power junction on the car as I built it so that's the main battery

Cable coming in that's also the feed from the alternator coming in and also feeds for the fuse boxes and everything I have inside of the – this is like a raging river as far as electricity is concerned the battery is like a nice serene calm Lake and the computer inside the sniper EFI and wants to live in that nice serene calm lake when it gets its power it doesn't want to be stuck in the middle of the raging river so avoid connecting up to something like this connect directly to the battery and we're back viewers I have installed the engine and transmission so everything is

In its proper place so that I know where my wires are going to run I had to modify my coolant temperature sensor for my gauge the wiring to that to make that a little bit longer to accommodate the new location that I showed you earlier now I'm going to remove the engine removing plate and install the super sniper on the intake with its new gasket so that well we know where everything's going to be and I'll be able to wire everything and clean everything up and make it all pretty before it's all done nice super encourage that this is coming off

Without incident I don't have to do anything except for sadly say goodbye to my carburetor gasket goodbye carburetor it's like the last remnant no the carburetor I loved my carburetor I really did time to move on here's the gasket that came in the kit it looks symmetrical so I don't think would be difficult yeah it just drops right down there backside of a unit front side of the unit you can make fuel go in here either way given that I'm running forced induction I cannot use the internal fuel

Pressure regulator on this I have to block this off so I'm going to take this port move it over to the front on both sides oh my gosh this is a bad day so I need to order something like right now that's – six not – eight and I need – eight well if nothing else I can switch it over I was only the impression that these were – eight fittings up here I was so wrong you know these aren't on they're very snug so if you've got one of these I would check these fittings make sure that they are secure before you fire it up and you really should check the fuel pressure straightaway or

Just check to see if it the system holds pressure right off before you try and start it up that way you don't run the risk of having fuel spraying everywhere you don't feel like they need a lot of torque there's an o-ring there you just I think need to compress that a little bit well I did have one of those fittings and the part number for this is actually in the instructions for my horsepower rating I should be running – six for my fuel system I already ran – eight I'm not going back so it's just as easily just swap out it's just as easy to swap

Out these fittings here which are 9/16 2 – 8 so 9/16 so ring once again part number in the instructions which I just ordered one overnight all right we can still sort out a bunch of other stuff though all right back on here so my fuel inlets and outlets are going to be here in my unboxing video I showed that this threaded rod for the carburetor at least online was not the correct size and I had to get another one so be aware of that this is a smaller one I don't know the size off the top of my head just looking at it additionally in that unboxing video I showed that the leakage

That I was using for my carburetor is never gonna work on this and there's just there's just isn't any room so what I've done is I've made extensions to extend this out like this which gives me plenty of clearance I should be ok with that there is a bracket that is available that I found and there was only one that I found specifically for the sniper EFI I'll put a link to that in a description but it's like 75 bucks I got some angle stock from the hardware store and made my own bracket so if they work out between that and the fasteners I bought

Which were really nice fasteners I think I got about 15 bucks in it these are my bracket extensions freshly painted like I said all it watch that unboxing video because I put in there the angle stock that I use and everything else but I'm just gonna use these to basically extend out throttle linkage so basically I just got set of bolts nuts and bolts throttle linkage moves just fine so know your Ference with this it's not going anywhere it's sturdy I'm not gonna run a return swing because this feels good to me that feels better than ever

Except for that a few things have happened since I last saw you mainly I fixed the throttle cable what happened is the end inside on the gas pedal the accelerator puddle broke off and the cable just pulled right through so I fixed it with a spot weld I'll throw up a picture of that right now these cheap throttle cables well they're just that cheap but throttle works fine now I've checked it has a full range of motion which is important you want to make sure that it wide-open throttle it actually is at wide open throttle and you want to make sure that the throttle can close I

Decided not to run a throttle return spring because well honestly I don't think I need it I think the return Springs on the unit seemed to work okay I made a discovery though that if you over tighten the fasteners and I'm not saying it well maybe I did over tighten them but if you really tighten these fasteners it actually makes that squeaking noise during throttle operation even louder and I suspect what that's doing is that's warping the case a little bit just enough to wear that throttle shaft is getting squeaky so just be aware that if you really tighten

That down in the manifold which you don't really need to that you might you know either cause it to be noisy or cause it to wear I don't know I just noticed that in mind so I'm passing that along I've also put the air-conditioning compressor on here because I forgot about my AC line that ran really close to the throttle linkage and it is closer than close to the throttle linkage but it clears everything clears nothing hits nothing is causing any issues there so I'm happy to see that I've also installed the belts and I've got sort of an idea of where wires and things are

Getting routed here in the engine compartment which is what I'm going to tackle next I also installed the o2 sensor in my exhaust and I can show you that right now here's the new guys previously stated I've welded a bung on this before so I anticipated this day but now I've got two sensors this is pre cat and this is post cat that's a joke because I'm not running a catalytic converter on that but this one in the back here is for my gauge the one in the front here is for the fuel injection system I've also made this fuel supply line coming in I've

Chosen to just use a ninety degree going in here I'm probably a zip tie that down and then the other fuel line will come in like this once I get this new fitting to attach and that will go over to the fuel pressure regulator your fuel pressure regulator is on the return side so it's after the fuel passes through the fuel injection unit is where you want to put your fuel pressure regulator if you don't have a boost application like I do don't worry about it you got a fuel pressure regulator but built into the unit hook everything up back here and

Don't worry about it but on boots and applications you need a boost regulated fuel pressure regulator which I will be installing and that's why I'm running an external regulator instead of using the one that's in a unit now my focus is going to be on tidying up the engine compartment the wiring connections and those types of things once I've done that I'm gonna do what I can to finish off the fuel system and then we'll move inside the car and complete those electrical connections there all right so I'm just gonna spend some time trying to sort out wires and

Vacuum lines and get things tidied up and connect it up I don't permit lis connect anything while setting the stuff up so I could just easily connect and disconnected not into the harness which I am only using one wire of for now which is the tachometer output I'm gonna route everything back to here with the appearance that you know it's all one harness and it's worth more than just this wire but on these wires that are sticking out in the ends I'm gonna cap them off with shrink tube and seal them up so that they can't come into contact with any metal and short anything out

And to start with I'm gonna cut them all the same length make it appear is all in harness instead of just all this for just one wire dramatic reveal of the capped ends of the wires watch as your wires magically disappear inside the tube where'd they go they're all gone it's just a black thing now today on eric the car guy tubes these are intake vacuum sources on the back you got a small one and a big one my big one is going to my vacuum supply for basically the hvac I have a sequestered vacuum tank underneath the fender here that that actually goes to

Cuz running boost I might not always have a vacuum I need to do stuff please admire the finished installation of my wiring I'm quite proud of it this is the boost regulated fuel pressure regulator that I got from Airmotive that I will be running on this application it's good for both carburetors and fuel injection that's the reason why I got it all you have to do is change out the spring inside of here I've got videos about mishaps with that side of it went to the hardware store and got some of these fittings and built myself basically a way to read the gauge I can adjust the

Pressure here and I could see the pressure that I'm getting up here on the gauge I did a video about these fuel pressure gauges that I'll put a link to in the description that goes into detail about these but this is a basic setup that I'm about to reinstall here the fittings I use to accomplish that and my mounting location is right down in here it doesn't matter if you're running a separate fuel pressure regulator or using the regulator on the sniper EFI both of those are on the return side so if you're running an external regulator the return runs to the fuel pressure

Regulator and if you're running the regulator internal inside of the sniper EFI that is the return side of your system the line going to the input for the boost regulated fuel pressure regulator needs to go above the carburetor had it just needs to register boost it doesn't need to register intake vacuum I took the opportunity to install the ignition wires – the distributor I just put the cap and the wires in place I'm going to connect the fuel lines up I got my part so I'll be able to connect my fuel lines finish that up and then I'm going to install the down pipe for

The exhaust over there and the rest of the exhaust and then we can push it back off the lift and take care of everything inside and finish up the wiring it's starting to feel real old the air fuel sensor and this one maybe one of these yeah let's do one of those now that everything is connected onto the hood and the exhaust is hooked up very excited about that I'm gonna go and connect those wires that I showed you towards the beginning so I'm running powered ground from the battery I am running a tach signal from the CD box in the back here and then I'm getting the

Tach out from the CD box to go up into the dash and I believe there's one more that oh the ignition hot so the ignition bypass in other words is also what needs to get hooked up so really that's the bare minimum you need to run this and then there's all the other components that you could hook up optionally such as like nitrous on some systems and also cooling fan operation a she's shut down relay oh that's covered in the instructions linked in the description here's a pro tip when running wires I usually run them a little bit long and get

Everything in place first and then I'll cut them to fit for instance I'm basically going to make this purple wire take the place of this yellow wire so I've got it cut long so all I've got to do is sort of match up about where I want it to be and I can snip it and I'll have the perfect length wire something you might consider and I've learned this through difficult experiences that you kind of don't want to make things permanent until you're sure that it works so I've just gone in and twisted some wires together and zip-tied some other wires together so

That everything is connected but I'm gonna verify that everything works before I do finally commit and wire everything up and hide everything up onto the dash and these are the you find these it like the hardware store pro battery cables are the way to go for stuff like this Pro battery cables I got other places to put stuff like the computer power going into a fuse which I harvested from the harness 30 amp so everything going down there is going to be fused I could get a little snazzy with this and like maybe hook that up in there thought about it but not right now

So close I'm gonna get this oil in here which takes a minute because it's running like honey at the moment and then I will prime the oil system and get that ready like I said I've had the engine apart replaced some lifters so I want to make sure that oils all through the engine then we will do a fuel system pressure test or pressure check so I'll bring the system up the pressure and look for leaks and then we'll go and look at the startup and do the setup for this engine and we'll see if it fires up right time to pre-oiled all it takes on a Ford is a quarter inch

Socket and I've got it taped to the extension so that I don't lose it now if we want to get really tricky turn the ignition on look at the oil pressure gauge to make sure we got pressure all right here we go like the engines running but it's not running and by the way the Ford is a reverse rotation so reverse your drill when you do it now that the oil is primed in the engine I'm going to turn on the fuel pump and check all the parts that I just installed on the fuel system for any leaks

So far so good I will turn the fuel pump on again and dial in fuel pressure where I want it which is going to be 58 psi well the fuel pump is very happy about this that's 58 fuel pump sounds a little different now you're just gonna cycle it see if it comes back up again yep I've checked the fuel system for any leaks I've looked the car over and all the stuff that I've did so far everything looks good now it's time to set up the sniper EFI this is outlined

In the instructions in the PDF that is linked in a description but I'm just going to run through the basic setup now from what I remember from reading the instructions so the ignition goes on this is good this is really good that it's showing this key on first thing a hit is wizards and the first thing we're going to do is select our unit which is the for injector 4150 super sniper next number of cylinders 8 engine displacement is 363 target idle speed I'm gonna go for like a 750 I think is a good idle I'm gonna go with a street strip cam or actually

No I'm gonna go with stock mild you look at your camps it has to do with vacuum like how much vacuum your engine produces I know my engine could produce about you know 1820 inches of vacuum which is considered stock mild according to this setup so that's my cam I have a turbo I have a CD box this is eating the ignition type system so if you hooked up to coil negative once again this is outlined in the instructions target air fuel at zero boost so this is at zero boost I'm very happy with with 12-2 so I'm going to stick with that so per 7 psi I want to rich it things up

As it gets more boost just see how far it goes 11 7 that's safe 21 psi I'll never get there I'll be most likely in here so 11 7 seems reasonable to me press the start button ascend the calibration of the ECU so start just talking to the ECU right now cycle the ignition to complete the operation so turn this off I just heard it doing something out under the hood theoretically we should be able to start it up now all right I've cycled the key and real quick I'm gonna do a check one of the things they they check for I'm gonna go

For vitals yeah let's go for that okay so my rpm signal should say stall just like this until I start cranking so that's what you want to see so then it knows it's hooked up to the ignition system so it's an open loop learn status is no learn but actually when I started it should be doing something else but I shouldn't be able to see a taxing all this stuff here goes hmm maybe a timing issue I'm seeing an RPM signal and stuff so and should be seeing coolant temperature sensor also battery's low that's a timing issue try this again I

Believe I have the ahead of timing 180 degrees out any leaks check Tommy initially I set the timing to 16 degrees I'll worry about fine-tuning later all right I've got another tip for you I just finished connecting all the wires together from the bulkhead coming through into the car and I'm about to wrap the conduit around but before I do I wanted to show you something when I connected all these wires so this group of wires that I'm crimping together and I like crimp

Connections especially these that have the shrink tube around the outside I'll link it in the description so you can check them out for yourself but the tip I'm trying to convey here is that when you do these connections stagger them don't put them all in one spot that way you don't have like a pregnant spot in the harness so you stagger them out and it'll it'll spread that bulk out over a larger area and here's the result of staggering those connections no bulky spots in the conduit or the harness I think it looks pretty good so here's the finished engine compartment and I am so

In love I really really dig this and I love the throttle response that I'm hearing so far I can't wait to take it out and drive it I'm also looking forward to when I install the hyper spark system and I have timing control as well as all these other controls that's gonna be super cool looking forward to that and yes I'll make a video this is where I chose to mount my display I have these magnet things I use this for my phone so I just I made this mount here and I can just stick it there and put it in the glove compartment when I'm not using it I do

Notice that the air fuel readings on here are different than the air fuel readings on my meter here and I wonder if that's because the sniper EFI is hooked up to my battery and this is hooked up to my power distribution so I don't know if there's enough of a voltage drop to actually change readings but I suppose it's possible but this is where things end up and this is where I hit my stylus installation of the Holley super sniper EFI I hope the information in this video helped you give you some tips gave you some tricks if you're installing one of these or if you're

Considering purchasing one you kind of get an idea of what you're in for now I didn't go over the installation of that fuel pump really and all that but if you can get this far I think and get that far it's just like another power connection and if you things that you need to connect Holly was a little butthurt when I told him I cut that part out of the harness but as you can see it fires up and run just fine so you know the bare minimum of what you need to get the Holly super sniper EFI to work out personally I like the fact that it starts up really well I

Also like the throttle response and let's face it it's way better than my carburetor was for a streetcar that is hands-down alright there I said it I'll put links in the description to the PDF of the instructions and along with additional videos and information if you have questions about any of this stuff I'll also put a link in the description to air at the cargo comm which is where I ask you go if you have automotive questions please don't forget to Like comment subscribe do those kinds of things that help make a living super appreciate that be safe have fun stay

Dirty I'll see you next time thanks for watching

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