Honda J Series V6 Timing Belt Replacement

by birtanpublished on August 21, 2020

Greetings viewers me eric the car guy no it's a little weird for me to jump in before the intro of the video but this Jay series v6 time we've out water pump replacement is kind of long and full of ads and for those of you with YouTube red there's no concern however if you

Want an ad-free version of this video it's available over on my website for Premium Members link in the description now to you Eric greetings viewers and thank you for tuning in today I'm going to be covering the timing belt and water

Pump replacement on my 3.2 liter Honda engine that's in my 2008 Acura TL now the parts I've gotten for this I got in a package deal actually from Amazon that came with everything including apparently front seals but I'm a little

Curious if this is actually correct because all these threes all three of these seals are the same part number and I almost thought that the cam seals were a different part number but I'm not exactly sure I'll find out when I get in

There however I do not recommend that you replace the seals unless they are leaking if these seals are not leaking I highly recommend you leave them alone I've known people to replace these seals and actually caused a leak but if you

Are going to replace the seals I recommend Honda parts it also came with tensioners and idlers as well as any water pump timing belt and serpentine belt and I'm also using Honda blue coolant for this procedure job 1 is

Going to be to remove some engine covers to gain access I'm not going to cover the removal of these plastic covers in detail in this video I actually covered that in the o2 sensor replacement video so if you want detail on that I'll link

That down in the description otherwise it's just a matter of being careful when removing things so that you don't break them after removing the engine covers the next step may be to drain the coolant from the radiator this can be

Done by accessing the radiator drain located in the center of the radiator underneath the front of the vehicle however even if you drain all the coolant out of the radiator know that there will still be sufficient coolant

Within the engine that when you remove the water pump it will leak out so know that even if you drain the radiator you're still gonna have coolant inside the engine that you will have to deal with later once you take the wheel off

The next thing you want to do is remove this inner cover which kind of goes across the front here you really only need to like pull it past half of it but I'm you know in other words you only need to disconnect it down tube

Here and then you can roll it back up underneath I'll show you that now and I use this tool for removing the plastic clips it sort of pinches and pulls them out I'll show you when I get the chance to see one up close here's one you can

Actually see squeezes and pulls it through so you're just gonna pull it up a little bit it's also Clips here another one back here a little bit of wd-40 on these helps these come apart a little bit easier but that's all I

Should need to take out now you can just sort of pull this down move it out of the way like this and I'll just take a bungee cord hook it in here and you can hook it up somewhere else like that just pull it out of the way there's some

Gunk on the front of this engine and I'm just gonna try to clean it up before I start taking things apart so that way when I take things apart I don't introduce dirt into places I don't want it to be now I'm going to

Knock the crank bolt loose and for that I'm going to use this special tool I consider this to be the easiest option it's not that expensive or you can probably rent it from your local auto parts store so we'll put a part number

To this for you but basically you're looking for a crank bolt removal tool in order to install the tool I have temporarily removed the oil filter thankfully I'm doing a service at the same time if not well that's cool too

The crank bolt is a 19 millimeter there you go this is a key to the whole job right here if you can't knock this bolt loose don't even try and I'm gonna make things easier give myself a bit of leverage so

It should be popping loose I guess I didn't need that extra leverage somebody really wanted that on there okay like I said having this tool makes all the difference reinstall the oil filter now because

There will be some water over here you want you want to make sure that the engine is the oil part of it is sealed up from that before I set this down I'm going to put this block of wood and position to where when the vehicle comes

Down it's going to land on the oil pan and this will allow me to raise and lower the engine you can do the exact same thing that I'm doing with this with a floor jack and also I recommend placing a wood block between the floor

Jack in the bottom of the engine but I just when working on a lift take that put it down there like that and look for it to hit the oil pan on the way down I'm now going to remove the power steering pump

I've already disconnected the low-pressure side and also remove the reservoir so that I could clean it up the only thing left is the high-pressure line which is these two 10 millimeter fasteners here and also taking the belt

Off which I can do by putting a 14 millimeter I have this cool 12:14 wrench I'll link it down in the description for you on the tensioner like so now I can take that and just push it back towards the firewall and I can take the belt off

Of the power steering pump belt sees to ten millimetres hold the high-pressure line on now I don't care about my hood but you might consider actually like putting it under a bungee cord or something all that I recommend

You be concerned about is if you put this down that the fluid will start to bleed out and pretty much make a mess that way like I said I don't care about the hood on my $200 car so I'm just doing that

Although if you care take a rag put it over and then wall off I'm now gonna disconnect the engine mount remember it's supported from underneath you can use a floor jack in a wood block so therefore I am going to loosen this 17

Millimeter first pull that through bolt out and this is actually the first time that I'm getting a chance to use this Milwaukee 3/8 ratchet I'm excited I'm pretty sure that you see that my side engine mount here is wasted I have

A new one that's ordered that I will have and will install if you are doing a timing belt and water pump on one of these engines I strongly recommend you inspect this first because it's super common for this engine mount to be like

This to be bad maybe not as bad as this but to need some kind of attention I found one for 20 bucks ok for the rest of the mount back here there's a 10 millimeter ground and then there are 2 14 millimetres holding this piece in

Place you do the ground first make sure that ground gets back on there don't forget it 14 millimeter you might need to knock this loose with a breaker bar first that's an awful lot of effort way too much effort I'm gonna basically

Raise the engine up a little bit to take some tension off of it not that I feel that there's any real tension on now this is what I do whenever I'm doing jobs where I'm taking a bunch of stuff apart here's this 17 millimeter that

Went through this way and here's the 10 millimeter that went on the end these things let me know that these fasteners go in these places so when I put it back together I don't have to go hunting for them wow that engine mount is

Non-existent like no existen it was just flopping around in there might as well take that off now I believe they're 2 17 millimeters holding and thinning the rest of the way yeah that was providing no support at

All mm-hmm with the engine mount out of the way I'm gonna raise the engine up you can use your floor jack I'm gonna lower the vehicle and my wood block will do the rest this gives me better access to the timing covers and all this stuff

Down in here so it you'd be amazed at just how much of a difference just a you know like that I don't inch or so makes as far as gaining access to the timing belt and everything that's in here down under

Here is one of the fasteners for the power steering pump it's a twelve millimeter I'm just going to try to sneak in there with this three-eighths the other 12-month meter fastener is located up here on the back

That you can remove the power steering pump now many times this low-pressure line would still be attached but in this case I'm replacing the power steering lines so or power steering pump so what I would do in that case is I just pick

This up and put this down over here I'd also remove the dipstick because that's how I broke it in the past is laying the power steering pump over here I broke the dipstick by doing that but where they completely completely removed

It's not an issue and like I said I'm doing a service and everything or replacing this so there's no power steering fluid to be concerned about at this point next I wish to remove the serpentine

Belt tensioner and to do that there's below it the idler has a 14 millimeter in it that you need to remove for starters and if you try to use a ratchet on this know that you may back yourself right into the frame rail if you leave

The ratchet on it and then you be like hey I can't get my socket off maybe you're not like that I don't know I don't know you personally so I can't say exactly what you'd be like but I can imagine its disappointment in addition

To that 14 millimeter fastener there's gonna be something that's really difficult to show you until after I get this out of here but if you feel almost straight down past that fastener there's another I believe 12 millimeter faster

That holds it to the engine block so just go almost straight down and slightly to the left if you're in my position and you'll feel another I believe it's 12 Miller it could be 10 it is a 12 in order to access it I have

This really short extension and a deep wall some might say the first thing to do when doing a time about water pump is to disconnect the negative battery cable which I am NOT opposed to you may have

Noticed that I have not done that I haven't had issue not disconnecting it but just for good measure it's a good idea I will be actually replacing one of those battery terminals so I will be disconnecting the battery it's just that

I haven't done it yet here we are it's much easier to see where that other fastener was now underneath down here and then the one that goes to the idler as long as you've got this off in your hand spin these listen for noise and see

How this isn't spinning a lot that's what kind of what you want to see rather than freewheeling so actually I'm very happy with this I'm not hearing noise and there's some resistance to its movement which I like to see if it's

Freewheeling and noisy well that's not so good but I'm gonna reuse this and be perfectly happy doing so but you should also be prepared to replace one of the uses particularly if you've got like belt noise here's something else

Interesting about this tensioner is you'll notice this little plastic thing that actually keeps the bolt in place I know it may come out like it did with this one I run it partially back in about like that that keeps the bolt in

There so when you install it it stays in place but if you have difficulty installing it make sure this plastic piece isn't on the end blocking the threads it's like opened up now these are the

Two upper timing covers which I'm going to remove next they have five fasteners each there's four around the upper portion and then you'll notice an indentation in the bottom both in the front one and in this one they're all

Ten millimeter and then you also this wire that's held in place want to move that out of the way so that you can remove the cover huh somebody just left that bolt out you don't need it

those fasteners removed you could remove the cover there's a little rubber seal there should be a little rubber seal in here that may get stuck or come out it just fits back into this groove now they

Only had four fasteners on this one they forgot the fifth when they did the time about the last time so I'm gonna see if we can find a one to replace that with but there's a better view of where the fasteners are now the front cover

Once again seal on the inside here that may come out just push it back down inside the groove it comes loose everybody been saying things up to this point like Eric why haven't you put the edge at in time well I'm waiting till

This moment to where I can see the timing marks clearly so with both of the upper covers off I now take a half inch ratchet 19 millimeter on the crank bolt and I will rotate the engine clockwise until it is in time now as far as the

Upper timing marks up here are concerned so on the rear cam you notice on this back cover somebody's actually put a white mark on it so this is the upper mark in the back and then you'll see the gear down here somebody is also marked

You won't necessarily see these white marks this is the other mark in the back here for the front you have this groove here that is that timing mark and then down here is what you want to line it up with and then also the reason why I do

It this way this is the mark for the crankshaft so that's what you're lining up and there'll be three marks and then a single mark you're trying to line this up with a single white mark and you'll see that as it comes around but that's

The crank timing mark all right and if you're doing a service and you leave the spark plugs out it'll be easier rotate the crankshaft mark should be coming around to there's another pointer in the back

You line the crank up with this back here so the three marks come first and then the single mark after it is what you're looking for with everything lined up I'm going to raise it up and go underneath so I can remove the crank

Pulley and lower timing cover now I'll take the crank pulley off since we've already broken it loose it should just come right off and be careful when you take it off there's a Woodruff key that's down in here I'll show you when I

Get it off you don't want to lose it and that would drift key is this little guy right here okay he's staying in place I'm fine with that yeah I took it out so you can see it so don't lose that guy there are seven

Fasteners that hold the lower timing cover in place and it's gonna be very difficult for me to show you probably anything other than these four at the same time I'm working in here but I can show you what with the cover after I get

It out one of the back is like the hardest gonna funny how lights I was just like oh did you want me to shiny in your face oh here you go you didn't like seeing did you you don't want me to be helpful

Oh the fasteners removed you should be able to drop that cover right out of there once again there's a seal running around the outside of it but the most difficult

Fastener is this one and I actually sometimes get this from up top because it's easier to get when I'm done doing the top cover so I might take this one at the same time but these are the fastener locations and there's a good

Look at the timing belt and how it lives in there back up in here there are two fasteners holding this is the hydraulic timing belt tensioner so you need to remove those two fasteners to remove the tensioner in its entirety and that will

Release tension on the belt so you do that and also what I do is when I come in here is these three fasteners here hold the crank sensor assembly in place remove those and remove the crank sensor assembly and lay it to one side I say

This because when you remove the water pump a bunch of coolant is going to come down and I don't like to risk any contamination of the crank sensor with any coolant so if it's up and out of the way it won't be contaminated but that is

The front belt cover don't forget to put this back on when you're done but the next thing I'm going to do is remove these three fasteners for the crank sensor and also remove the two fasteners holding the timing belt tensioner in

Place bring the shield and then it just slides up off of its mounts it should slide up off of it smells Oh back up in here there's a little rubber piece that's actually in part of the harness that's

Got to go back into a slot when you put it back together there's that little rubber piece there and then I'll just take a sensor and leave it plugged in because it's sort of a weather packed connector and just move it as far over

To the side as I can and now I'm going to remove the two fasteners that hold the tensioner in place hey at least it came out and there's my tensioner it's easier to

Show you this one to you from underneath but here's a 14 millimeter fastener that is part of the engine mount assembly also holds the water pump in place it's just easier to get to now it's again it's 14 millimeter I'm gonna remove that

Oh yeah that's how you're supposed to point if you're gonna be a light other than that you're a magnetic brick I'm not gonna take the bolt out I'm just knocking it loose for now I'm about to lower the car down and when I remove the

Water pump obviously a lot of coolant is gonna come out so I've got my catch pan in position for when that happens see all that orange stuff on that timing belt tensioner that means that's been loose this whole time whenever I see

That type of thing that means something is loose so I don't think that that fastener was ever tightened properly from when the timing belt was installed previously in addition to that 14 that I removed underneath for this there are

Two there's one here and one here that also need to be removed and then on top there's this 10 millimeter so those additional fasteners you need to come out where this comes off gives you better look at what fasteners

To remove them where they're located with all that other stuff out of the way I can very easily come in just undo the belt take off when you get up to areas like this there's sort of little retainers on the top you got to slip it

Underneath that there's another one over here you sort of have to slide it off that way and there's your belt I feel like I caught a prize fish back to the sea I'm gonna remove this loose tensioner which I'm praying is not cross

Threaded yeah they have a sleeve on the inside what could have happened is that sleeve that sleeve on the inside here is kind of worn yeah you can see how it's worn on one side now I've put these back in and just

Changed the orientation of it and I've been okay I have seen this before but I do have some new parts and maybe those new parts contain any one of these and if it does well we're golden if not then I'm going to reposition it

Right here's an idler I'm gonna take off also 14 millimeter holds it on Wow I don't like this at all it feels like it got run in sideways well I came out uh I see what it is that was Loctite that's what it was not so

Worried about Loctite I don't feel it necessary to lock these in place I think dump it somebody locked I did this in there I don't believe I've ever seen one from the factory like that there are five remaining fasteners holding the

Water pump on it'll be easier to show you when it's off but they're all ten millimeter so two over here and three in the back next step is I'm going to knock the water pump loose with my hammer and then

It's gonna start to leak coolant out and when it does that I'm going to jump underneath and make sure that it's making it into the pan I never get it all in the pan I mean the best I can hope for is most and even if

You empty out the radiator that's still gonna do that at about this time I'm sure you're asking Eric why don't you replacing those seals because after two hundred thousand miles they're not leaking possibly the crank one might be

Leaking but I I just don't think it is so I'm not gonna bother with this if you do replace these seals or you do see like cam seals or something leaking then knock the bolts on the or nocte fastener that holds the cam gear on loose before

You remove the belt so if you intend on removing seals knock the fasteners for the cams loose before you remove the belt and then I'll help keep you from fighting with it the whole time because the belt will help hold it into place

If those seals are not leaking I do not recommend replacing them all right so we got a new tensioner that's cool grenade pin attached now if you don't have a new tensor tensioner and I recommend you do have a new one I call this the grenade

Pin you can put this in a vise and in fact I'll show you how to do this after I get this old one out but I'll show you how to compress this but the thing of it is is don't just run the vise down really hard just really slowly work it

Back in you smush this in really fast and hard you'll ruin the internals and you'll loose tension and you'll get noise as the engine operates excellent freakin excellent so hey here's the thing this is new but the but the

Bushing inside is not so we have to transfer our bushing over to this one so think we'll be alright I'm just gonna clean that up before I install it in there but it's nice to see maybe have these in this kit so yeah all this stuff

Good honda part there's its number it's all wrapped up the vent corrosion I guess wish I could read Japanese so I could understand what that says it's probably some actually it looks like a couple of languages maybe there's some

Korean in there also probably something that says something like have a nice water pump day or something else do not eat yeah that's probably says here's the new water pump and it is very similar to original equipment in fact it

Says Honda on it weirdly Asian makes these water pumps for Honda but they look very similar other than this ones so much shinier I like that and especially impellers I like it when the impellers are the the same because

That's where the magic happened it's all those these are slightly different yeah this impeller on the new one looks like it's got smaller fins than this one does that's not cool bro as I said I got this all on a kit he's

All say Honda parts those are Honda part numbers and such but you know you know before I install this I'm gonna impart to you something that I've run into rarely but it can cause an issue when you go to reinstall the water pump

There are these two locating pins on the outside I have had occasion where when I remove the water pump these pins were still in the engine block and when I tried to install the new water pump it wouldn't go in

And it was because these pins were still on the block so I was going to pin to pin so just make sure you've got these two pins here and that they came out with the old water pump to avoid that issue goes in just the opposite of how

It came out as far as torque have never torqued these I just make sure I used quarter inch tools and I don't run it down so much that you know stuff starts to break or bind or snap if you're snapping and breaking you did it wrong

You know this water pump is not fitting flush with the front of the block well well it's going together just feels flimsy so going back to what I said earlier about not replacing the Steel's I'll pull this off for you

And show you that virtually around the outside of it is dry I rarely see any of these seals leaking what I see is like a valve cover or something like that going down and making this so whenever you're trying to diagnose oil leaks always

Start high and work your way down but I don't see anything here that says man have I got to replace the oil seals I just don't see it everything up here in the cams is completely dry on both of these I don't see any oil and because of

That I recommend you don't mess with it if you if it's not leaking don't mess with it but now I'll clean that whole area up and get most of that dirt and everything out of there now that I have the water

Pump on there sealing the engine up all better I'm gonna put my Woodruff key back on and it has sort of a beveled edge on it you see that edge it's sort of curved in that faces towards the block

Actually easier to put this in after kidding we are next I'm going to put this idler on before install this gum and clean up the sleeve like I said I was wearing up

There towards the top see what that does actually no that's locked in it might have just been the bushing that was worn on the other one because this thing is not moving at all now that's encouraging I'm glad it replaced this I'm actually

Gonna put this on after I put the belt on now we're gonna address the most commonly asked question I get about doing this commie belt job we're to a happy place everything is fine and the

Rear cam is in time but what happens oops oh no now what do I do see this happens so often because this is under tension it's under spring tension that's pushing on the cam lobes on the inside of the cylinder head if this happens do

Not panic all you've got to do is take a 17 millimeter wrench put it on and then pull it back up into time it's important that you use a wrench to do this and I got to do is just reposition it once it's back in position you're totally

Fine I think it's hurt anything but if that cam rotates that way or the other way doesn't matter just take a breath put a 17 millimeter wrench on it whoops happen again going the other way no big deal just when you get up to that

Apex just slowly and you're good I do the speech with every timing belt job that I do there's a tension side and a slack side to every time belt chain whatever that's at least what I call it so this engine rotates clockwise

Therefore the tension side would be on this side the front cam and the slack side will be where the tensioner is on the back cam that's why I'm waiting to put that up on there it's gonna be a lot easier to get the belt on this way so

Now we know our marks are all in place we can with the belt on the crank come up around the first idler pulley and then as you're doing that I try to make sure that that stays hooked onto the

Crankshaft and I pull it all the way up through so you don't have any slack and go around this can slide it back under here under the water pump in fact it didn't cooperate for me at all here but that's okay so I go from tension side to

Slack side whenever I install the belt that's kind of what I've been trying to say this whole time and one of the reasons I leave that lower piece off is that it just makes installation that much easier for the thing here is that

There's no slack in this part but since this since I moved that cam gear I think I'm off just a little bit because Tommy marks don't line up exactly in fact I did a video about this so I think I just need to move it ever so slightly it is I

Needs to go back this way just a little bit that's that much there we are okay so for now this is what we're concerned about so the belt is under these ends that are holding it down these little bosses that stick out from the inner

Timing cover and then there's no slack here Tommy marks both there and they're lined up so the top parts in time we just need to go down and do everything underneath to finish the job now I'm gonna start by pulling the belt down on

That quote-unquote tension side I'm making sure I've got it snug which I do now and now I can put that rear idler on and when I do it will hold everything into place and then I put the tensioner on just seems easier for me to do it

This way then try to fight with it with everything in place all right we're good I just had concerns that when I type that down there was no movement to the idler which would mean it wouldn't put tension on the belt and I'll lock

Everything up I don't think I need to say that that's not good I had to mess with it for a bit mainly because I did that demonstration of moving the cam gear and as a result I had you have to get it just in the right position so it

Takes some fiddling around but the 17 millimeter wrench is your friend however after a bit of messing around I had the belt installed and I'll show you what it should look like when it's installed properly I know the crankshaft

Doesn't time in fact you can take the lower cover put it on and just slide the crank the damper on here and check the marks for the crankshaft which I did before this but what you want to see as I've been saying that there's a tension

Side and a slack side so the front side is going to be your tension side so you want a bit of tension on everything before the tensioner so now we come down here to this side where the tensioner is and look we've got lots of slack so this

Is where slack is so when we activate the tensioner it's going to take up this slack but everything up to here has a little bit of tension on it it's not loose all the way up to this point right here so everything up to this gear

Everything up to the tensioner has just a little bit of tension on it and that's what we want to see and in addition the timing marks are all lined up so the upper cams are both lined up up here with this mark and also on the front cam

With this mark and as I said the crank is also lined up and we'll show that again once we get the lower cover back on now that we have all that in place before I go up and do the lower cover and the tensioner and

Everything I'm gonna put this part of the engine mount on here this has to go on first and this also helps hold the water pump in place by the way I still don't like how that water pump was sort of it went on like a potato chip it was

Kind of bowed like this I've never seen a Honda water pump they came wrapped in plastic like that one did I've seen him in like this pink colored plastic bag but nothing that was like shrink wrapped like that and I have a feeling that that

Might have had something to do with that I'm is shaping water pump however now that's bolted down it should be on there flat if not there'll be a leak and we'll know it hopefully right away before I put the tensioner the hydraulic

Tensioner up on there I'm going to reinstall the crank sensor and get the wiring and everything out of its way because actually this wiring routes right under to that tensioner so I just love how this light like says oh you

Want to see that let me turn around the other way no problem now put the tensioner on make sure it engages some of the older models have liked for the crank sensor a little plastic clip that goes on the back of

This that you can slide this into holds that wire in place out of the way the serpentine belt so it's kind of something you want to make sure it makes it back now to pull the grenade pin which isn't under any tension at all

Apparently so I'm just gonna pull this pin out that's now applying tension to the belt check it out so that sets the proper tension so all that slack we had before it's gone if the inside of this doesn't have any oil this one does have

A little bit of oil so I'm really glad I replaced it but if there's no oil on the inside of this this tensioner is still good and you can reuse it so if you decide to not replace this you can so long as it isn't wet inside there and

This is what you do you're going to need to get you can use a drill bit for this but I just gonna use the old one that I just took off the new part take it and put it in a vise so we want to like do a preliminary lining up of the hole so

This was this was slightly off like that and when I went to put this in here it was never gonna go together so I just sort of pulled it up to an approximate location and when you squeeze this the idea is to go slow

Like don't just run it down in there because if you do that you will damage the internals of it and you'll notice that if you just apply slow even pressure but that's all you need to do like it'll go and easy you just apply a

Little bit of pressure at a time that's the key if you just run the vise down you're gonna damage it but as long as you're moving at a steady pace like this you're fine they keep going until it comes in

Contact with a housing that's usually like right about there that's usually where it'll go together insert your drill bit or pin and make sure it goes all the way through both sides and then you can release tension

On the vise and there you go but make sure it goes all the way through the bottom because if you only go through partway this is gonna push it out and Bend whatever you got in here so it's got to go all the way through I'm

Now gonna install the lower cover I cleaned up some of the oil and stuff off of it that was coming from the front of the engine which we will be addressing it's actually a valve cover leak we're gonna address that in another video

Anyway oh I should say before you put this up on here you really want to put this on and make sure you put it on this way not this way it'll cut the belt so you see there's like a that's raised up on one side and you want that raised up

Side to face towards you not the timing belt sort of dished out like that but I think it's obvious if you put it on like this that's wrong needs to go on like this see the witness mark for where the damper is gonna come in contact with it

Put this on view forth the timing cover or you'll regret it and go one last note if you if this seal thing comes out and it's just giving you a bunch of trouble especially when you go to put it up in here I take a little bit of honda bond

Or RTV and you can put it underneath it sort of glue it into place that happens a lot of times if it gets contaminated with a lot of oil and causes the seal to swell up it's kind of a pain when you go find a fastener to replace

That one that's missing up here anytime I junk an engine I always take all the special fasteners off of it I possibly can so I basically strip it down before it goes to the scrapyard and get all the stuff like this before it leaves for

Occasions just like this now I will take a little bit of engine oil just a couple of drops on the threads before I install it no lock tight or anything like that because you saw how difficult to came out well it'll probably be the case next

Time around – I've never no one to come out and I call that done and one last check to make sure that all the timing marks are lined up there's the one on the crank there's the one on the rear cam and there's the one on the front cam

Everything's still lined up I'll reinstall the upper covers so going back to the seals and not replacing them the oil that was down there I believe is coming from the front valve cover and also the power steering pump which I

Know is leaking so don't be fooled by that stuff always look for leaks up high first covers are installed now gonna reinstall the serpentine belt tensioner now for me

It's easiest to start with the center bolt get that started and get that threaded and then come in with the 12 millimeter later and just sort of move it back and forth to find it because I'm doing it blind you could also do this

From up underneath I just end up doing it from up here because the upper timing cover won't go on and off easily with this in the way so I do this after and I don't feel like going underneath but if you're with jack stands on the ground

Well simply just lay it on the ground to get there but if you do have trouble with that lower fastener you can just go underneath and it's right there you can see it real easy good thing it came out all that stuff's installed now anything

Left is a power steering pump same two 12 millimeter fasteners that hold it into place don't forget to Snug them up I'm gonna reconnect the high-pressure

Line it's also not a bad idea to replace that o-ring if you can install my new serpentine belt so the easiest way to remember like where stuff goes you're like how is it routed they don't have a routing sticker up here but if the

Pulley is smooth then that's the backside of the belt if it has grooves that's the front side of the belt now I can install my news engine mount and then its connection to the engine

It's exciting to have an engine mount now because for so long it kind of didn't have one in fact I did a video about finding suspension noises that I actually turned out to be this engine mount there's a similar similar vehicle

As a TL but just know that if you've got noise going over bumps and I believe this one did could very well be the result of this issue I'm curious how my $20.00 engine mounts gonna work out but so far its bolting out and bolting up

Okay don't forget the ground L all the way through alright there's everything installed don't forget about that ground as far as that engine mount the way it's sat in there it was sort of over like this so I wanted to make sure that these

Fasteners were started before I ran this one down so I'm not exactly excited about that thing being under tension there's only one way that it can go in so it's not a question of how I installed it it's just a question of how

The part is made but given that it was $20 and it's not that difficult to replace even if I had to do it again I wouldn't hate it I wouldn't be happy about it but doesn't feel like it would be the end of the world next let's get

Some coolant in here it had green somebody change it out for green coolant at some point and I haven't known that to be like a real issue adding green coolant to a system that originally took blue I haven't seen real issues with

That but considering the options you have out there like universal type coolants even like as some companies even make a specific colored coolant that's supposed to be universal for vehicles with that

Color coolant I like to stick with what the manufacturer put in there originally originally what was in this and I have some is the Honda blue coolant this stuff which is what I'm going to be

Running and I'll put a link in the description to this I've also got a video about how to bleed the air out of the cooling system but since we did the water pump and drain the radiator we should get most of the old green cooling

Out but one thing I did notice when Honda switched from green to blue coolant was before the blue coolant there were a lot of Honda radiator failures and usually it was at the seam between the aluminum and the plastic

Tank since they switched to blue coolant I don't really see that as much anymore so the low phosphate formula or whatever they're using here seems to be working while you're filling it's a good idea periodically just to check for leaks if

You're pouring it in and you hear it dripping out on the floor find out where that's coming from it's probably important I think all you'll need is two gallons yeah I'm certain that would just be – it only took a little bit more of

This one I'm also gonna top up the overflow before I start it up for the first time I'm just gonna take one last look underneath for any leaks or anything that might indicate that there's a problem I don't see anything I

Think we're good to go all right it's an exciting moment first startup I may have to get in and feather the throttle a little bit like I said it's drive-by-wire but because there's cleaners and things that got down inside

There when I had the intake off and was doing all that stuff I might need to give it a little gas keep running here we go no drama at all

running nice – like real nice I cover this in more detail in my bleeding a cooling system video but one of the things you want to do when you are bleeding a cooling system out after

Doing a bunch of work like this is that you want to turn the heat and everything on high but you want to turn the HVAC off this way you know that the heater valve is open and coolant will flow through the heater core and you're sure

To properly bleed the air out of the system but that being said we've already here the only thing that's illuminated is the service do which will reset the service light when we're all done but there's no check engine lights no other

Lights or anything of concern right now which is awesome alright once again drive-by-wire I'm gonna jump in I'm gonna run the engine at about 2500 rpm oh I don't know well until I see the air come out or feel heat coming out of the

Vents once again that's covered more in depth in another video that I'll link in the description for you any smoke or anything that I see I'm not concerned about I had the valve covers off I cleaned a bunch of stuff up there's

Stuff that's going to quote-unquote burn off during this procedure don't be alarmed it's completely normal well if you see fire then be alarmed I recently replaced the power steering pump as well covered that in another

Video so that's the noisy here in fact I'm going to top off that fluid before I start raising the RPMs anymore alright I topped off the power steering fluid which is still a bit noisy it's got some air in the system ignore that

Unless you open up the power steering system like I did and replace a power steering pump you'll likely not experience that just waiting for the cooling fans to kick on here we are fans are on

Airs blood out temperature looks really good just for the heck of it I'll also check the heat and it's it's awesome like immediately before the fan even started blowing I could feel it coming out warm

All right we've successfully bled the cooling system I must say this thing is running really really well and I'm gonna I'm gonna say that's probably tributed to the brand-new o2 sensors I've covered that in another

Video but it's got new o2 sensors front and back fresh o2 sensors means a good feedback for the computer it's able to really precisely control hue and the fuel mixture kind of why they're there but the new timing belt also and you

Know all the service work we did new fluids that type of thing seems to be very happy now let it's run for a bit take another look underneath inspect for leaks I don't see a drop coming out of this engine or transmission now that I

Know the air is out of the cooling system we put the radiator cap back on I think we did some really nice work here really happy with the outcome not bad for a $200 car well viewers that's gonna conclude my timing belt and water

Pump replacement on the J Series v6 that is in my 2008 Acura TL this information will apply to Acura TL s from 2004 to 2008 but I'll be honest J Series v6 is the started in 99 have been used in a lot of different vehicles and there are

Small subtle differences but for the most part they all work pretty much the same so the information in this video no matter what J series v6 you're working on will at least give you a general idea of what you're up against a couple of

Things that I want to add to this video the first is that my torque specs that I posted on screen were not taken from the manual they were taken from a website that I'll link down in the description they seemed reasonable and close but to

Be honest I've never looked up the torque specs but I get asked about that a lot with videos like this especially so I've tried to provide that for you I believe the torque specs that I presented to you are going to keep you

Out of danger in other words you're not going to over torque and brake things that's that's my main concern lastly the well not lastly one more thing after this but I suspect that the water pump in particular that I got was

Counterfeit and the reason I say this is because as you saw the comparison between the two water pumps the impeller was definitely different also the size of the impeller that sort of like was a red flag but lastly when I went to pull

That grenade pin on the timing belt tensioner there was literally no resistance whatsoever and I'm not used to that I'm used to a little bit of resistance sometimes to the point where I have to use pliers to pull that out so

That when it exits it's actually moving a little bit and putting tension on the belt now the reason I mentioned this is because some of the things that were mentioned to me with people that have reached out with questions in the past

Had said that they've gotten counterfeit water pumps and the pulley on the water pump was a bit larger and it made it very difficult to install the timing belt I don't know if that has anything to do with it or not I'm going to link

The parts that I got in the description but I'll also provide some part numbers for you so that you know the actual Honda part numbers at least for this engine they may be they may be different on your J Series engine so please be

Sure to look up and make sure you the correct parts for your vehicle in your application lastly I have a full version of this video available to premium members over on my website no commercial interruptions that kind of

Thing I'll link that down in the description if you're interested aside from that parts tools additional information will be linked down in the description so if you have questions please check there if you have

Automotive questions not covered in this video I asked you head to air at the cargo comm I've got a whole slew of things set out to help you with any automotive questions that you might have there please be sure to LIKE comment

Subscribe and also share this video of the with the world I appreciate it when you do that I like it when you watch the videos use help Thanks be safe have fun stay dirty thank you so much for watching I'll see you

Next time

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