Honda J Series O2 Sensor Replacement

by birtanpublished on August 24, 2020

Greetings viewers i am eric the car guy and thank you for tuning in today today i'm going to be working on my 2008 acura TL you might remember from the initial inspection that it had a check engine light for both oxygen sensors front and rear these are the primary oxygen

Sensors located at the top of the catalytic converters on both banks of the engine they both have the same part number I didn't get Honda parts I just went for these Denso parts which I believe you're the Original Equipment

Manufacturer anyway so in other words I got these a lot cheaper than if I bought them through Honda I believe they're the same stinking part a couple of things that I just want to share with you when installing these and removing them that

I hope will help you if you need to install oxygen sensors on your J Series v6 Honda job one is going to be to remove some engine covers to gain access this cover on the side is clipped in here usually but mine has been broken in

The past so yeah so there's usually a clip right here that goes into there next I'll remove the upper engine cover and you can do that with a flathead screwdriver you just go into these plastic clips give them a 90-degree turn

Like that and then it has a couple of rubber clips in the back let me pull up you're going to need access back behind here also these covers start with this side over the brake fluid and such over there it's sort of clips onto this cross

Brace and then this other one if you pull these tabs forward that releases it it's also clipped in here and here on this crossbar back in here there's a couple clips and since I'm having so much from a fun

Removing engine covers well let's remove the cover over the top of the battery that one still had its clip that's how they're supposed to come apart the primary o2 sensors are located in the tops of the catalytic converters on this

Engine so one in the front here and one in the back here I'll give you more detail on that located on the back of the engine is the rear o2 sensor you kind of have to dig down for it this is the power steering hose here so

Almost directly down underneath it is where you want to go and you can just barely see the top of the wires right there the front oxygen sensor is easy to find it's right there coming out of the top of the catalytic converter the same

Is true for the rear it's just harder to see the connector for the o2 sensor is located here just follow the wire from the sensor over and that's where it is just to make it easier for you to see things I'm gonna remove this overflow

Which is just held down by a 10 millimeter fastener here this isn't necessarily a part of the procedure but it could make it easier for you to gain access I'm going to show you after I take this connector off but there's a

Little tab underneath here that connects it to the holder or thing that fastens it to that clip there so in order to do that under here there's this clip so just move that piece of plastic out of the way and you'll be able to slide that

Off of that retainer you just disconnect it pushing down on this part of the connector will disconnect it before I fully commit now I know that these are the quote unquote original equipment manufacturer for this sensor but before

I fully commit which you'll see what I'm talking about a minute I just want to make sure that this sensor will plug in and the wires match up it does here's the thing that's most important and this is my method for

Doing these sensors it's very difficult to get a socket on here they do make Oh to sensor sockets but oh to sensor sockets are made for installation more than removal and the reason for that is as most of them have a split and

If you try to put any stress on them that they will spread at that split and round things off so what I do is I just go in and with a pair of side cutters like this and I clip the wires right at the top of the sensor like so and that's

Why I say make sure it fits before you commit because you're gonna cut the wires in order to get the socket down on here which will be a 7/8 socket I haven't no no a few sensors to be of a different size what it looks like I'll

Need to do is remove this shielding there's two 10 millimeter fasteners holding that on socket should go right down on it now and it does then I'm going to use a breaker bar to knock it loose

Just for the heck of it I looked down inside the top of the catalytic converter to see if there was any issues I don't see any issues in here it looks like the substrate is intact if it was all coated up with gook then it could

Indicate my catalytic converters clogged down that there's a problem there I can take off the protective cover now super important to put anti-seize on the threads of an o2 sensor before installing it it looks like there are

Some on there they also give us a little tube of it in the packet but you definitely want to make sure that you have a good coating but don't get it on the sensor element just get it on the threads this is the reverse of what you

Just did to remove it screw it in by hand make sure the threads take before you commit you don't want to cross thread that and I'm gonna use this o two sensor socket to install it so you can see how

That slips right over the wire like that and you don't need to over torque you just need to snug it up so that the exhaust doesn't leak that was about a quarter turn quarter turn past the time it's seated on the top of the catalytic

Converter now I can plug it back in go underneath and just take that slot slide it up on to the retainer till it clicks and I don't mind that this is routed away but I don't want this getting into the fan so I want to be sure that it

Doesn't do that so I just want to sort of make sure that it's up and away from stuff also I don't really want it up against the ignition coil either because that could cause some electrical interference I think that'll be fine the

Way it is especially once I get the overflow back down in there it is not necessary to remove the upper strut brace however it is gonna make access to the back of the engine much easier without this in the way in many

Ways this is easier said than done and that's because this fuse box is attached also there's another bracket back here that's attached so you need to remove this ten millimeter ten millimeter on the fuse box here this

Ten millimeter on the fuse box here and then we still have another clip to undo after we remove those so we'll start by removing those three ten millimeters there's one here it's one over here and then there's one on the back here for a

Bracket I start just by taking this bracket off just laying beside the fuse box is still held down by a plastic clip right here I can show you better after I get this off of here but you got to push that forward and pull this up off so

Right here is that clip just pull that clip out on the opposite side there is one just wire retainer pinch the plastic clip pull it through like that one last ten millimeter fastener I forgot about which is holding this cruise control

Assembly on now you can remove the six 12 millimeter nuts that hold it into place you might have to push the cruise control back a little bit but you should be able to just take the brace out now removing that brace opens up the back of

The engine compartment a lot with the rear brace removed it's a lot easier to see the rear o2 sensor and there's the wire and it's connector here's the rear o2 sensor and here's its connector over on this side so you can come in from

Over here undo the connector unclip it from its bracket remember they're the same part number whoops with a connector unclipped from its mount like I said it's the same thing it's got that same clip back there you can push it down

Let's separate it if these give you too much trouble spray a little bit of wd-40 on them that helps like electrical connectors disconnect and what experience there we are okay so on the inside of this connector is a little

Plastic retainer the one for this fell out and I heard it hit the ground so I've got to put this back in if it fell out of the sensor side who cares but this is the harness side so I got to do something about that it only goes in one

Way and it clips everything together just pushing the rubber seal back down into it yeah that is it same thing as before want to come in move the power-steering hose out of the way I'm gonna come in

Here I'm gonna clip the wire there's also a shield back here that needs to be removed I'm really glad that hit the ground now we have a clear view of the sensor once again I'm going to clip the wires and

Then use my regular standard socket to remove it clip the wires 7/8 socket my extension and a breaker bar there's the old one try to do another inspection certainly looks cleaner than the front one so I don't think we've got to be

Concerned about that as far as catalytic converter problems which is really good to know new sensor the same as it was on the front one let's write it down in by hand and once it seats it can get the breaker bar and OH two sensors socket

Out give it about a quarter turn then reconnect the connector okay because it went together so easy I know that I got what I did earlier done correctly so this will sit on here like

This slide onto the bracket listen I hear it click there it is it's away from all the exhaust so now I'll install that upper shield install the coil pack otherwise you'll have an engine miss and that should do it

Next you want to clear the codes that were there initially that caused you to do the replacement you can do that as easily as disconnecting the negative battery cable for like 10 seconds and that will clear all the codes in the

Computer and if you with mine I would start it up and the codes would come on immediately which I actually think about have been a heater failure or something like that either way so I'm gonna disconnect the negative battery cable

I'm gonna be replacing one of these battery terminals anyway so no matter what this is gonna happen but you can do this just leave it disconnected for just a few seconds and reconnect it and that should clear the codes in the computer

So now when I started up I shouldn't see a check engine light would be embarrassing if I do right okay let's start it up and see if our light is gone yep aside from the service light it is gone

And that walks you through replacement of the primary o2 sensors on my 2008 Acura TL which is a Honda J Series v6 so if you have on – J Series v6 with o2 sensors placed like these are this should walk you through the replacement

The little tips that I showed you I hope they're helpful to you I'll put links in the descriptions to the parts that I use also any additional information that might pertain to this vehicle and this job thank you so much for watching if

You have automotive questions not covered in this video I ask you head over to air at the car guy comm that will be linked in the description along with the other stuff that I mentioned please be sure to LIKE comment subscribe

And share this video with your friends thank you so much for that be safe have fun stay dirty and I'll see you next time bye bye

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