GMT400 Front End Rebuild (Part 1) #ETCGDadsTruck

by birtanpublished on September 29, 2020

greetings viewers and welcome to another
episode of e TC g dad's truck build and
in this episode or series of episodes
I'm going to be dropping the front end
to inches using drop spindles but I'm
also going to take the opportunity to
remove the front control arms replace
all the bushings paint everything and
put it all back together also I have an
idler arm here on this side that's loose
that I think is gonna tighten up the
steering if I replace it so I'm gonna
take the opportunity to basically
refresh the front suspension and drop it
to inches here's a bushing kit that I
got for the entire truck I got this from
Summit and I also used it in the rear on
the leaf spring bushings it also has all
the stuff I need for that it also has
body bushings which I'm not going to
install those right now
here are my drop spindles also from the
same company this is part of that same
kit and these are 2-inch spindle drops
and I'll be able to show you more
clearly how this does this after I get
the old ones off also from Summit these
are Bilstein shocks for the front and I
will be able to run these even though
I'm dropping the front end two inches
I'm doing a spindle drop which means the
suspension travel is the same therefore
I can use stock sized shocks I've chosen
these bills teens I'm also going to take
the opportunity to install these steel
braided brake lines on the front while
I'm at it and there's a new brand new
set of rotors slotted rotors in here
along with new brake pads back here on
this bench I have a set of brand new
coil springs for the front I figure 30
year old coil springs I'm going to take
them out anyway why not replace them
here's the idler arm I spoke up that I
was going to replace ball joints both
upper and lower I have new bearings for
the front as well as new bearing seals I
got all this stuff from my local Smyth
here the part numbers for the other
parts mentioned I'll link all this stuff
in the description and make it easy for
you to find
I'm gonna start by since I have the
truck on the ground especially on the
shocks hitting things with penetrating
oil to get things moving I'm also going
to hit the control arm I'm gonna start
with the shock nut and it could just
start spinning and if it does well I'm
just gonna get out my torch and cut it

yep it did exactly what I thought do I
get to do one of my first under hood
modifications none of this is going to
be used so it can go away this is
strapped down it's held on by a 3/8 or
ten millimeter up under here it was
harder than it needed to be holy cow can
you believe that just worked makes me
want to go try the other side because
that just worked I'm putting some
tension on it so I'm pulling this over
like this and hopefully

I'm gonna try an alternative method I
think a little bit of heat we'll take it
to the rest of the way come on get down
on there you've pissed me off
no way bushing your services are no
longer required the other side was
easier I need to get the wheels off I
want to make this sort of pretty under
here so I'm gonna paint things I'm not
replacing any of the tie rods or
anything but I feel like taking this all
off it as an assembly would be great
also getting the stabilizer bar out of
the way since I've got new bushings here
and new end links here so I'm gonna take
the stabilizer bar off first and the
entire steering linkage
notice how this side is lower than this
side this frame is different from side
to side so this one has a steering box
this one does not it's got this little
extender piece hanging down it does
appear to be 10 millimeter or possibly
3/8 once again with the links that may
be a cutting thing it's nice working on
the front sure to walk to the tools I
never expected that to happen
I guess lightning can strike twice in
the same place thank you Dad for taking
such good care of this truck I feel a
lot more stable I just do

and get this cotter pin and I was just
sort of thinking out loud
I might just replace these inner and
outer tie rods while I'm at it
replacing this idler arm anyway which
you can probably see just from this is
moving up and down a bit
it's getting loose up here in this joint
it's got here is 22 millimeter
locked in by the centerpiece I have to
turn the wheel to get it out I got to go
farther or I can just do something I'm
gonna do anyway and take the freaking
idler arm off we're gonna have to take
the splash shield off anyway and this is
gonna help me gain access to some of
those fasteners for the idler arm next I
hope it is a better tool that's one way
to do it all right more of these looks
like I'll need them there's a hole I can
see through my torque I just put the
nuts back on these so that they're less
apt to fall back inside try to take out
these lower shock mounts there's sort a
half-inch sorta
yeah maybe yes and no dang it
oh if I was curling right now I'm gonna
remove the calipers now and I'm gonna do
something they say not to do and that's
let it hang by the brake hose why
because I'm replacing the brake hose
well why care these are 3/8 allen head
might as well do it to this side too I'm
now going to remove the front rotors
because it's going to make those
spindles a lot lighter in the process
I'm going to show you it's a little
trick on how to deal with tapered roller
bearings if you're replacing seals I
want to save this part cuz I'm keeping
it oh look we machine the inside of it
the cotter pin did well that's cool and
what if we played that our record player
it would mean something I did a whole
video about this might be helpful to you
wait a second that's not a cotter pin
that's like a finishing nail no wonder
well what I might just do
knock off the nail part and just pull it
through this way weird I am NOT reusing
this yeah well here's your trick you
need to do the rear seal what you should
whenever you remove these first take out
the outer bearing nicely
say hello outer bearing and set it aside
now if you want to remove the seal and
the rear bearing because you want to
replace the seal put the nut back on
just like that and take the rotor and
when you take it off make sure it's
riding on the spindle and pull it
towards you like and there's your
bearing and everything else and that
makes that whole assembly lighter we're
gonna need our backing plate sweet
excellent
that looks like an actual cotter pin
oh this is a no-no somebody tightened
this like I should be able to yeah cuz
this is only when you tighten these down
it's just like a Boop
you know any preload on these bearings
that's okay
bearings are getting replaced rotors are
getting replaced seals are getting
replaced but the only thing coming back
is this nut and that dust cover in that
washer I'm gonna undo the ball joints
both upper and lower it requires some
cotter pin removal I know you can just
run these out and just turn the nut over
the top of the cotter pin just break the
cotter pin off and the inside of
whatever it is and I'm replacing the
ball joints so it's like yeah so what I
just like to get them loose I've had
issues in the past trying to get them
out it's just a personal thing but
there's lots of ways to do with the same
thing sorry
don't want to take these all the way out
because this guy's waiting to kill you
I'm just going to get them split up past
the end of the stud so that when I knock
it loose it'll come off easy
all right that's past the rusty part
got me a new coil spring compressor got
it from jmv tool sales I'll link it in
the description but there is said part
number once again it'll be linked in the
description but this guy should fit up
through the bottom and hold that spring
in place so that it doesn't try and kill
us we don't want to die today at least
if we do die we'll do it on camera now
to get the views helps prevent rust too
this one goes up inside this one goes
underneath just making sure it's all
hooked together if it's not make sure
it's hooked together see that means
we're compressed means we shouldn't die
today I'm gonna take the opportunity
while things are still together and not
moving around to remove the rivets on
the upper ball joint I've got my spring
compressed and everything else but this
is held in place right now and I'm going
to air chisel these off very similar to
what I did with the rivets on the rear
leaf spring when to go in and we cut the
tops and then chisel off the tops and
that should be that
by the way there's no way this ball
joint can fall through here because this
whole top is holding it on so I'm not
concerned that it's gonna come flying
apart on me but I am going to switch the
face shield because there's a lot of
junk flying around I'm using my earplugs

now going to loosen the nut on the lower
ball joint and see that we don't have
spring tension on it so as long as we're
gentle should come off they will have to
loosen those bolts on the control arm
there's our spindle these are 24
millimeter I'm going to loosen them
because I don't want this the whole
thing to come just dropping down in the
coil spring and go flying out and
possibly come apart therefore I'm going
to loosen this one in the back a little
bit and then the one in the front a
little bit and just try to do it a
little bit at a time
that's why I was standing over here
that's why I put it in the vise upper
spring perch we don't lose that in fact
we probably know order more of these

that's heavy
I figure it's time to get this brake
hose off these are 11 and on the other
side I'm assuming also some form of 11
millimeter

those were 21 millimeter and these have
cams on see how like the bolt is like
half flat in such a way and these cams
or so you can adjust the alignment both
camber and caster are adjusted with
these two upper bolts the super-special
so don't lose them one side done this
was in the way the whole time on the
other side so I'm just gonna take it off
first
once again replacing the brake lines I
am NOT concerned about letting it hang
letting a caliper hang by the brake hose

I'm just going to take the opportunity
to knock the inner bolts of the lower
control arm loose now because I know
that's going to allow the coil spring to
come out easy when I'm ready for it

at that top one just break loose yeah it
was the top one weird how I'm eating the
bottom and the top comes loose please go
into my shock hole
I think my cutoff wheels giving out on
me
get the right wrench Eric mmm it's
starting to spin which is what I was
trying to avoid
why do I not like this good reason not
to like it so don't trust these spring
compressors either
let's naked both sides oh yeah that
there's stuff that came off
it's time for spindle talk where they're
at the car guy these are the stocks
metals that were on there you can see
where this pin comes out and it's sort
of close to the ball joint down here now
my new drop spindles see how the spindle
is moved up two inches and cast up here
instead so everything else about the
suspension will be the same just the
location of this will change therefore I
can keep the shocks and everything but
this will clearly illustrate the
difference between spindles and show you
what a spindle drop does and we're back
I have covered the truck in its cover
I have also covered the other vehicles
in the shop and taking the ones that are
that I don't want to get paint or dust
on outside we're ready to get to work
and we're about to make a big mess but
at the end everything's gonna be nice
and clean and painted and ready to go
all back together that's the goal let's
get started I want to reuse a lot of
these parts so what I will do is get
some of the big chunks out like I'll
reuse this nut I'm not going to be
reusing the bearings or the seals or
anything like that but these washers and
these bearing caps and this stuff I do
want to reuse big glob of grease there
so I had this idea maybe it's not a new
idea but I got this old calendar that
I'm just gonna put in like this take
these parts and others like it and just
turn the thing on and let it run while I
work and that will allow the solvent to
work on the grease and everything else
that's on here while I do other stuff
it's terribly exciting wait on these
backing plates there's a little rubber
seal rubber doesn't do too well in my
parts washer so I'm gonna remove that
for now well I used clean this next I
want to clean all this stuff the frame
and everything else but these calipers
are so in the way so I'm gonna remove
these on both sides now so I can get
access to all this other stuff easier
I'm going to use the trick that I talked
about earlier in this series where I'm
going to depress the big brake pedal all
the way to the floor that way the master
cylinder doesn't bleed out while I
remove these components now I don't want
to push the Pistons out on the calipers
or anything so what I'm going to do is
I'm going to knock these lines loose
from the back and let it drip out that
way the pressures got someplace to go
and I'm going to do that on both sides
you just don't want the pits didn't come
out of the caliper when I do this just
going to depress the pedal slowly to the
floor or as far as it'll go
and the wedge it in a place just like
this and this should prevent any air
from getting in the system and from it
to bleeding out entirely with a brake
pedal depress the brake lights will be
on the entire time and I don't want to
drain the battery and this is something
I could have done a while ago but I
wasn't doing a welding or anything so I
wasn't too worried about it
now I'll take this the rest of the way
out
so you weren't supposed to bleed out
anymore mr. master cylinder you look
like you're bleeding out still like a
lot Kuan here I'm also going to remove
the brake hoses
please seem to be fourteen millimeter on
this vehicle this cap will help keep
dust and debris I want to get one that
fits a little tighter but I want to keep
dust and debris out of the brake system
terribly exciting this is one of the
caps for the bleeder valve I think this
will work too there's a flap here on
this side that wasn't on the other side
I want to remove it as long as I have
these here I'm going to push the piston
pin and take the brake pads out because
I will be reusing my calipers
I like these brackets they locate the
brake hose on the control arm really
nicely but the new brake hoses don't
come with any of this so I want to see
if I can transfer this over and while
I'm here might as well just check yeah
they're the same length so we're good on
that part what I want to do is I'm gonna
cut a section of this out large enough
that will accommodate this smaller brake
hose going in and then when it's on the
car zip ties will take me the rest of
the way but I'll still be able to use
these brackets which is what I want um
think about that much oh it's think I
don't have to cut this but I think I cut
it in just such a way to where I can
just peel this out yep ooh check that
out it's already compromised a little
bit well that's gonna work awesome and I
think what I can do is I can
after reconditioning this I can squish
this down well maybe I should do that
now before I paint it that way it fits
the hose a little better I don't want to
go too much although it's not
cooperating so maybe there's a little
bit yeah that just fits in there which
is what I want it I might squish it down
more when I do final assembly but I know
that I'll be able to hold it in the rest
of the way with some zip ties
I decided to come in here and take off
the rough edge that was left by the
cutoff wheel for the file just to smooth
things out so it doesn't harm the brake
lines I notice that it just scratched
the outer covering of the my practice
line as I was putting it in there but
now I don't feel anything dangerous at
all gonna clean these up off a little
brake clean to get any fine particulate
dust and stuff off of here so that it's
ready for paint
I'm just using brake clean that seems to
be going everywhere stop doing that to
this rate pile I'm also going to prep
the calipers for a little paint I don't
know if these will come off or not I
can't just do this on the bench it's
really awkward in here
the other one they are now ready for
cleaning I'm just gonna take the brake
hose attachments out I'm pretty sure the
bleeders work but I'm gonna make sure
they work now oh yeah they worked fine
I'm not gonna run these to the parts
washer why because mineral spirits eats
rubber you know what that is that's a
rubber seal on the outside of the
caliper piston so I'm gonna knock the
rust off with this wire brush much as I
can and then I'll clean him up with a
brake cleaner the dual piston calipers
are available for this and I have
considered them but they are six hundred
bucks for the pair so for now don't try
these

staying dirty today my friends staying
dirty
a couple of things I don't want to get
paint on I don't want to get paint in
here and I don't want to get paint in
here and I'm gonna mask off the bleeder
because actually I can pop that guy out
and take it over to the wire wheel and
make it shiny now I'm going to mask off
those areas where I don't want paint to
get into it's always a good day when the
masking tape actually sticks I'm not a
painter as you can probably tell I can
do it when I need to
whoo wait I got a better idea every time
we use these I think my friend Shane
Craig up in Alaska for sending them to
me these are plugs that he uses working
on diesels out in the the bush basically
I'm gonna say that guy's ready for some
paint I don't care about painting in
here so much you'll never see it only
you and I will know that saves me some
time thanks Shane thanks a lot
I'm super happy that just saved me a
bunch of time let's throw a coat of
paint on these and let it sit while I do
other stuff
this is caliper paint let's look at
these brackets while I'm here – they're
here and this is getting the chassis
rhobar paint
well viewers that's gonna be the end of
part 1 of the rebuilding of the front
suspension on eat ECG dad's truck but
settle in this one's going to be kind of
a long haul here in fact the rough cut
of this little mini series within this
video series was about 12 hours long so
there was a bunch of editing that needed
to be done to cut things down to what
you see here there is available a part
one in part two all is one video
available to premium members of my
website I'll put a link to that down in
the description part two of this will be
posted within a week if it is already
available and it's past that time where
I posted that that link will be posted
right at the top down below also down in
the description there will be links to
parts tools additional videos and
information if you had any questions
while watching this video so please
check the description if you have
questions if you have automotive
questions not covered in this video I
asked ahead to air at the car guy calm
you guess it also linked in the
description please don't forget to Like
comment subscribe do those things that
help make a living super appreciate that
and of course be safe have fun stay
dirty and I will see you next time
thanks for watching

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