BEST Subaru Clutch How -to Replace Part 1 briansmobile1

by birtanpublished on September 26, 2020

People are tuning in from all around the world to watch a stuff you're just gonna sleep through it huh you're so cute Brian's mobile one well it's time to add another one I've done a few clutches I'm working on a 2011 it's a Subaru Impreza WRX and we're doing the clutch

Replacement on it there's a bunch of just little things that I'm going to include in this video and the first of which is gonna be how to pop out a CV axle on older Subarus you have a pin that goes through here that you got to

Drift out with this five millimeter six millimeter drift something like that on these it's a little different and by different I mean the same as everyone else especially Toyota what you want to do is you want pop out the ring you want

To put the pry bar in here but you don't want to damage anything around the transmission so I do is I favor where the bolt is and that bolt is tied into a whole bunch of other stuff and gives it more support basically use the bowl as a

Fulcrum you just pop it it doesn't come the first time get a little better bite on it see how it came free that time and then you can come out to here and pull it from there as for the other end of the axle what I do is I take some spray

Paint and I spray paint the bolts on the strut first and you see there's a yellow tag line coming off of this one here so I'll mark those so I know exactly where the bolt position was to the strut that affects your camber and that can affect

You know a bunch of other stuff you see I got a little spray paint on the rest of it prevents rush rust and that gives you a good witness mark at how it was as for the nuts and everything on these you gotta hit those open so this is my

Special chisel that I've ground down on the bench grinder to fit into a CV axle slot you see the little slot right there so it's made to fit right into that not just Subaru but most anything here's the nut and instead of being dinged down

Here it just pops it right back up I do that these are a 32 millimeters you have an impact gun that's the best but if you don't you can get a breaker bar put it on there with a 32 get your buddy to stand on the brake pedal and you can

Crack them loose that way if you want to break them free before you go up in the air too far but you do have to get the wheel off get to it so here's the bolt you can see it's got all these marks lines on it for reference but you can

Just make your own with a paint pen or fingernail polish whatever you got brace this one with a 19 millimeter a 3/4 from the backside and then zip it off with a 19 millimeter impact or a ratchet and socket whatever on the other side you

Can see that this is a cam bolt when you twist this it was gonna bulge at the top notice that the left now it's at 6 o'clock so any way that moves this so that it'll come in or out so that your tire will have camber not

Have camber this one's got a mess of camber let me show you see how this side of the tire is fine and then you'll look at the inside it's just balled and slick it's just almost down to the cords just a mess so if you mess it up you get that

Kind of an effect this is the top bolt it's the can bolt on this particular one and you got a couple of 12 millimeter bolts you've got one that holds your brake hose here and then you got another one over here hold your abs sensor for

Your brakes that enables you to get your axle to slide out if it doesn't slide out easy you can take a drift just hit it with the hammer just knock it through once you get it out you can stick it over the top like this there's a better

Shot of that little slot and that's just a retention thing if you have your nut come off your bearing can separate the two different halves of it or held together with that nut to your CV axle so if that gone you could have this half

Of everything come off with your tire not ruin your day this is like a t 65 or T 70 to get this drain plug out you want to drain this one if you can but you pull the axle out the rest of the way you'll find that it's gonna drip a

Little bit of gear oil do of it then I take those cap plugs it's a cap and it's a plug like from the wrecking yard I'll just cap both sides of it and then top it off with them done so when it comes time

To put them back in support Vince and straight as you hold the end you've got a little bit of play on each of the boots you want to twist it until it's keyed up and then you basically use a back in the axle so you have to force it

Or if you have to hit it back with a hammer you're not doing it right there's a little seat clip that's floating around in there you have to make sure that that sequence yeah 12 year old – laughing when you have that c-clip

Lightened up centered it's good but if it's hanging low it's gonna block gonna have like a metal bar essentially a metal paper clip or something hanging down lock and access you rotate it 180 it allows it and take off the pressure

And then hit it again it should slide in real easy another trick is where the seal mounts to the axle you can put a little bit of grease on that lubricating it will help your seal to last longer also help it to go in easier without

Damaging the seal this is the front of the drive shaft you can see if you look inside that it's got the splines and then there's one that's different than the rest you see the slot right there and then you line up the back these are

Balanced some on some vehicles I don't know if Subaru balances theirs or not there's also another slip yoke right here this is your carrier bearing it just carries the middle sections of it and then this is your rear you point so

That the rear you've got these studs in there you can see that one sides taken out that goes toward the center and like I say some of these are balanced some aren't what I do so without the spray can and just spray along and just create

A witness mark for it that way I know I can get it exactly in the same spot with the rear diff so you'll have a washer and a nut on the backside of this and then again here's one of those studs I just put them together pro tip if you're

On a lift you can just stick your bolts on this and you know gotta have a magnet dish because they're kind of sheltered away from everything that's what I put my rear drive line bolts every time then I don't have to lose them

easy twelve millimeter and no wrench on this side so you just have to pull it from this side if you leave it in gear it's easier anyway if you leave a brake on when you park it or put it on the

Left or jack it up or whatever it makes it easy cuz everything holds still you just wrench it so I pull the bottom two or the bottom three has it work and then go for the one at the top I got lucky on this one because it's an H pattern so I

Just pull this one get it out of the way and then it can pull the top one and so on a wrench it's really helpful for this I just call them s wrenches for lack of a course I grind them and work them so that mine are easier if you get the

Outside ground off and the top ground off and then get rid of the elbows a little bit they work even better but yeah for the carrier you just pull two fourteen millimeter bolts here and then you pull these four bolts here pull the

Exhaust shield down and then just slide it out of there easy-peasy this is what the bottom of your shifter looks like this is the cup this is like basically the cup that gives it something to sit in at the bottom so it goes into here

You can replace these blocks here with poly ones the teflon grease polly squeaks a lot it can be really noisy but really stiffens and firms things up makes it feel like you're solid on Rails this is basically a brace between the

Transmission and the body so this is a twelve millimeter bolt here you pull this out when you're doing the transmission he's got a bolt here and then once you get this bar out you undo the bolt bring it to the side and it'll

Pull out at the bottom here then you can get to another bolt it's this vertical well this bar does when your shifters going side to side like this this is being twisted the upper rod not the lower brace the upper one it'll twist

And then it pushes in and out so depending on how far it's twisted is how far it is across the sides of the shift gate so it pushes impulse to the gears and go twists to go to the side-to-side so I've got the shift brace turned

Around backwards you pull it out this goes in here you pull that out pop it out of the rubber boot so it can drop down a little flip it around backwards put this one on top and just let this fall down OOP

So this is where the brace goes is pull everything you out leave this cradle in we're gonna use that here in a minute look at all the wire harness off and it's hanging by that one clip I just let it Bingle because I can never get those

Things to come off without breaking them I don't want to break it everything's coming apart beautifully when you look back behind here this little dowel is free on this side and you can see I've got my high Bess or my

Gearwrench a twenty two one six whatever not sponsored frickin lava anyway though I wish it sponsored me but this one is stuck here and it's not coming out so I sprayed it with some penetrating oil and I just bounce it and bounce I bounce it

Basically this transmission the tail of it I can get it to go right and split on the left and get the top to separate but that one pin right there is so rusted and so stuck it's moved a little bit but it's still just holding on like crazy

See the split line right here so I'm just trying to get that apart at this point so we're throw you in the tripod and I'll show you my monkey dance that I do to get these to come apart you

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