Arctic Liquid Freezer II Tear-Down & Disassembly vs. Asetek Design

by birtanpublished on September 10, 2020

Hey Ron we're back to tear down the Arctic liquid freezer to this cooler has done the best in our testing so far for the new testing and it's among the best performers in our old test wheat so we've requested a second ones that we didn't take apart our sample that we

Spent a week of testing time on I ran this one through the tests as well just have another set of data and today we're going to take apart the pump and see if there's anything else to the Assembly of this that makes it perform as well as it

Did aside from the fact that it's got a thicker radiator and then just fans that are built well so let's get to it before that this video is brought to you by gigabyte – or srt x28 ETI extreme the r-tx 20 atti extreme is built with a

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Flair learn more at the link in the description below so first of all let's just point this out radiator is thicker this is not actually the radiator size so this is about 39 millimeters for the frame of the radiator radiator itself is

Let's see we have to subtract about 6 millimeters or so presumably from either side of the frame Bay there's gonna end up being about 28 millimeters or so a thick for just the rad not counting the frame so it is wider that might

Interfere with some cases that you're really on the edge of it working but you'll just have to check on a case-by-case basis literally to see how that works out let's get to the thing that we actually

Care about here so first of all this is what we're talking about in the review when saying that the pump fan is connected so that's interesting so here's the original review unit which we got back when these launched surprise I

Don't know if that was September to November area 2019 this is what I was working with for the review the reason I said interesting is because this is the cable for the vrm fan which is up here

That's the BRM fan and this cable is what I was able to really easily just disconnect for a/b testing and our review so you unplug it and the fan stops spinning easy enough and to do it without rebound tonight basically stuck

A rod through here from the side and then just applied pressure on both sides of it sort of you know downward like that to get it disconnected without dismounting it so that's how it took tup here and I noticed when I redid the

Testing on this new one I noticed that the pump was no longer reporting a speed in BIOS and I'm not sure was never quite a hundred percent clear if the reported speed for the original unit was actually the pump or if it was the vrm fan but

Either way it was it was a number that was there and with this unit the new one I only had the fan speeds I don't have when I plug the pump header in here I don't have a pump speed it just reads zero even though it is definitely moving

So I'm wondering if that's related to this if you look closely here you'll see that it's no longer a cable that just connects in via header it's actually a cable that is soldered in into the PCB underneath so that's a very different

Approach to connecting it than what we reviewed does it really influence the product now but much different way of connecting it does mostly I mean in almost every instance you're not going to be unplugging this cable anyway so

Getting this one versus the old one shouldn't matter to a real user just for someone testing it have that said it looks like you've still got this and this wood the wood to their credit be much easier to work with for a/b testing

Than the other one because I could actually get it out of the body enough to unplug it without having to use tools so anyway that's the difference on the bottom not a big deal but it is different let's just validate that the

Cold plate is the same size and make sure they didn't change anything else that I need to know about about 44 so about 44 by 40 40 is going to be from what I'm calling the front in the back of the cooler that's still 40 and

That is still 44 so koble it hasn't changed just making sure there are no major important changes because this is new too they've labeled the pump on the bottoms 12-volt point for 9 amps I think that's about all we've got four major

External changes so let's start taking apart the new one which has fans on it we get this one out of the shot and for this teardown today we're gonna be working on the GN medium mod mat which is in stock and on the store we've

Arranged for the large ones which is under this down here yours will not come with all the thermal paste and your of copper powder and aluminum powder on it it'll come clean but the mediums are on the store and the large ones are on

Their way in so we'll have those in soon if you want to backorder them but otherwise mediums ready to go okay so we've got four screws here and they're just Phillips looks like maybe Phillips two or one I grabbed one of our

Screwdrivers while I'm promoting things and I just check the exact sizing that's gonna be a Phillips 2a one will fit but I think that's it this is gonna maybe the easiest teardown we've done for a cooler definitely Torx pretty hard but

Not nearly as hard as ASA tax in theory if we can disassemble this non-destructively I should be able to refill it and reuse it we wouldn't be able to use it exactly the same way for you know thermal testing because it

Would have been modified but we could at least use it maybe for a bench like a GPU test bench so we're starting to get a leak now which is expected sometimes people ask why we take these apart well it's to understand how they work

Obviously so this isn't just to destroy it and in most instances it is not destroyed but we'll see about this a lot of the liquid glory we disassembled have wires soldered in for RGB LEDs that half Oh weird those are two different sizes

That have to be clipped but this doesn't have our GB LEDs okay so I was at the top – okay then so the top two screws specifically want to say top I mean towards the the vrm fan those are longer all right there's the plate

There's the micro fins help me drain this easiest to drain I've ever worked that's normal you have to slosh these around a lot so typically coolers are filled with a propylene glycol and I can smell it it's got a very distinct smell

And propylene glycol is a mixture with the distilled water that allows them to do a lot of things like mix metals closed-loop liquid coolers for the most part can mix metals with almost zero issue if it's done properly a Sutekh

Cool it both those companies tend to do it properly enter max does not and it also allows different amounts of cold like cold tolerance if you have a customer as the CLC maker a customer who says we are

Selling these two we're selling units for government research – a cold environment maybe it's in Scandinavia maybe it's in the Arctic whatever and they can change the amount of propylene glycol in there

To be more tolerant for say minus 40 degrees Celsius as a common one that some of the ASA tech units are targeted for so that's all that does but the more a glycol make sure you have in there the lower the cooling capabilities so it's

It's not desirable for cooling performance okay so just for sake of reference it's got about let's call that about it's hard to tell with the bubbles on top but it looks like about 270 250 to 270 milliliters of liquid a lot of

The CLC's we empty tend to be in the 100 to 200 range to 80s tend to be about 200 so this is a fatter radiator and that shows since more water came out you've also got to account for the tube length and things like that point of

Reference here's the NZXT is brand new X 63 it uses a Gen 7 ASA tech pump which is pretty similar in a lot of ways to Gen 6 and we're going to be comparing some bits and pieces of this as we go the Arctic solution outperformed NZXT is

Which is going to be one part fans one part radiator size and then one part pump so in terms of micro fins orient them the same way if we get a tight zoom on definitely the Arctic one you'll see how densely packed they are I need to

Check with Arctic on the exact fin density fin pitch is mostly is mostly going to be 90 degrees on pretty much every CLC some of them do a special fin pitch though depending on the product and you'll typically find micro fins on

A closed-loop cooling part like this as opposed to the larger fins that are an open-loop parts a lot of that has to do with cost these are made by skiving and we can hopefully have the editors drop in some footage of a skiving machine

From our coolermaster factory tour last year so you can see how that's made if you're curious to learn more about that you can watch our factory tour video and it'll tell you how these are these are made so that would be in our howler

Could coolers are made video micro fins about twenty two point three millimeters by about thirty point five twenty two point three by 30 and about 30 by 24 so they are almost identical ace attacks got a bit more surface area

There at least assuming the fin density is the same but I would wager that ASA tech might have a denser it looks like they're different density is gonna be higher oh yeah I think that is accurate yeah yeah it's a text pen density is

Higher so haze attack has more surface area but is not performing better however the radiator size is quite different I'll measure that another key difference in these two I made the comment about the screw lengths and

About the torque so ace attacks torqued they torque the hell out of theirs their screw types have changed over the years but ASA Tech has traditionally used extremely small allen or torques and they apply so much torque to those

Screws by machine that were at least machine screwdriver that it's it's almost impossible to get it out without stripping one of them in the process we've gotten good at it but it was not without some failures where I had to

Drill them out so I stack uses two-four-six-eight to secure its cold plate Arctic cesium for that doesn't mean either superior than the other but it is a noteworthy different difference an ASA tax plate is much larger overall

I'm not gonna do PI R squared calculation today but it's a larger coal plate obviously because it covers the entire area of the other one and exceeds it but the Intel bench has a much larger ATT CPU and those Intel HD

DT IHS has worked really well with the ASA tech plates so a stack tuned it's designed for Intel h EDT back when that was kin and not much has changed for their designs generationally Arctic really was hitting the rise market so

They launched kind of later they launched in the stride of AMD risin it was after Intel had started to slip and that's the difference you seen the cold plate design just for sake of having it let's get a measurement of this as well

So including the chassis that's gonna measure 30 mil instead of 38 that is 7.2 ml make sure roughly the same it's about average they're about seven millimeters on each side so we've got 14 that we can cut off of 30 so

We're down to 16 millimeters for the actual tank the radiator itself actually the tank I shouldn't really say that the tank if you want to get tactical this is the tank and on the other end this is the tank you don't have a reservoir with

The CLC so that's why you mount with the tubes at the bottom so that any air bubbles that form are not where the tubes are because if they over time as you have extreme permeation and you start to lose liquid into these tubes

Then your water level will get lower so if you do your radiator vertically with tubes at the top what happens is first of all they don't ship completely full it's not possible with permeation over time the water levels going to drop once

It drops to the point where some of the air which will be at the top point in the loop when some of the air is exposed to the barb it'll get sucked down through the pump and that's the whining noise a lot of

People complain about what their CLC s typically they don't really whine all that much unless it's a bad design most of them are just sucking air through the pump from people setting it up like this which is wrong so public service

Announcement don't do that try to get the tubes like this or you could also do like this either ways cut there was water in the loop either way connect chat yeah anyways couldn't get the air away from going at

The pump let me mop this up we didn't get it all out a couple weeks ago on we took this one I don't think these are threaded I wanted to expose the the tubes without destroying this leaving but we'll take

It apart more and see if that becomes easy reason I say that is because the the tube so a s attack over a rubberized tube whereas Coolermaster uses a Teflon line tube the rubberized tubes are less permeation resistant than

The Teflon line into tubes they're still good they'll last you like warranty six years these days realistically you're talking like six to eight maybe and the rubber is just more flexible problem with teflon is if you bend it like like

This you'll crack the Teflon and now permeation is gonna be really bad so anyway a side note for you and if I guess I'll note this if you like this type of tactical information I'm learning about the stuff that you use

Then grabbing something like one of our mod mats from store documents access dotnet is a great way to support us a really high-quality for PC builds disassembly things like that and they also have a grounding cable

They are anti-static conductive and we've tested that okay let's pull out the gasket so there's our gasket standard rubber gasket accept sized for the new cold plate so that's gonna sock it that into there so as your flow

Guidance helps with maintaining a certain pressure to whatever they suspect we've got the different channels in here I'm not sure which is in and out I'm you know taking an informed guess and say that I think the bottom center

Are at the bottom down there in the middle is probably in and I'm assuming that's gonna be our out but I'm not positive let's see if we can get a little further inside of this I made this connect this this so it doesn't get

Ripped out of the solder joint and we've got folks to folks Co Phelps won Phillips won Phillips one Phillips ta Phillips – if it was want it's a lot of screws for this I'm haven't taken one of these apart before so we are learning at

The same time I'm not sure which screws are required to get which piece of the assembly off but we're just whole thing apart so it doesn't matter that's not between those two just tracking this that way if we decide to

Reassemble this and use it later we've got it written down theoretically you could go through the first step of this process to refill the loop if it ends up drying out you would just hold it upside down keep the this part high pull the

Four screws out remove the plate and you know try to move it around get all the liquid as far down as you can and then you could refill it that would be how you would maintain it if you want to keep it in operation if there's some

Permeation with age so these are maybe captive oh I see I don't know they're not captive we just need to push down to pull on them a little bit okay cool that goes up here front okay so show is separated it's

Just gonna be the fan it's completely separate from the rest and then pumps gonna be in there so that's where we want to get into looks like once we pull the fan assembly off there's gonna be a screw hiding somewhere okay well there's

The back cover to the pump GC Marc's 2020 okay so we've got a foam block here presumably that's just for spacing but it could also be for vibration so that there's not like a rattling noise of this plastic shell typically these are

Used for dampen vibration the cables are all soldered in so this is not something you're gonna want to break unless you can restore them which isn't that hard but that's gonna be the cable for where is it over here this one I think right

There so I think that's gonna be our fan it's a four pin and that's gonna be our pump header on this side over here and that's our vrm fan what is this that's a gummed up hole so I don't know

If that's maybe a fill port that they jammed with jams with rubber after okay there's the interesting part that looks like the old Dino Tron Impaler is the ones that they sourced back from the antec cooler series which were crazy

Good for how much they sucked in every other way the anti cooler 1250 all right so let's pull this out okay all right hi I'm teller there's the motor tell you what the coils the copper wraps wire wraps look really high-quality sometimes

We see these where there's like some copper frame or you'll have a lot looser wound than this so the copper windings really really job well done there it looks clean good quality wrap and copper so that's gonna be our electromagnet and

PCB with all the wiring nothing special is needed like with NZXT where you have all this mess for RGB LEDs so it's a lot simpler than that which drives on the cost significantly now you're making one less board so looking at the housing

Here there's a rubber gasket on the outside rubber gasket is for preventing leaks scratch away at this thing that I thought was filled rubber for a fill port I think there's actually a screw in there the reason I say that is because

On the other side I can see some threads stick in 300 yep there's a screw so that might be the fill port oh that screwdriver has a Corsair logo on it that's the best thing I made with the a500 yeah that's I'm thinking that it's

The fill port there's the impeller pretty good quality Impaler it's a significantly better than white significantly better than what ASA tech I was checking if it's plastic or if it is metal but it is in fact metal I don't

Want a tech used to do the old yellow ones we have footage of that from our EVGA see y'all see tear down that we can drop into this video a lot better than those is that these days is doing this so I mean I don't I wish I could offer

More insight specifically to impeller design but I would need to speak to an impeller designer to learn about that and the people who make these coolers they're not designing the impellers they're buying this from someone so

They're not the right people to ask we'd have to go to their supplier but perhaps in our next trip to China when we can travel again that would be something we could look into but anyway big difference in the impeller design and

Presumably the the rate of flow the flow rate might be better on the arctic cooler but that's something we're gonna have to have tests as well with a flow meter and we're not set up for that right now so that's what it looks like

Inside top chambers not really nothing special to see here this side if you're curious is just plastic molding so nothing special there either it's just the top of it I think one one important piece of insight I can provide here if

You're wondering about the look of this and not just the look but the interior the structure of it one of the biggest challenges in liquid coolers right now is a detects patent ASA Tech has successfully enforced its patent in the

United States and if I remember correctly maybe in Europe and the last time I looked into it they were working on getting one in China so a Stax patent is more or less the pump is on the CPS I'm

The in the block the way that companies get around this is they do stuff like what deep cool does the captain station where they have this this tube coming out of the lower section going up and going back in and that bypasses the

Patent because now your pump is technically in a different chamber it's not in the same chamber as the cold plate and there's more nuance to it than that but that's why you see some designs where we'll do a video like bypassing a

Stack patent and thought because we think they deserve or don't deserve the patent it's because it's literally how you bypass it and whether or not you think their patent is valid the companies that are selling in the u.s.

If they don't want to be sued still have to work around it so like the Arctic had had to put some thought into how they were going to deal with ASA tack and not getting sued so that's probably part of the reason you see the design you do so

That's it for the teardown the big differences or takeaways here are going to be the impeller size and design again not an impeller expert but you're talking plastic smaller impeller versus the larger metal one what that means

Well we'd have to either do some kind of special flow testing or talk to the engineers of the impellers and then the electromagnet has really high quality work on it the windings are good and the radiator that size impacted the

Performance almost certainly that's why it takes longer to heat up and then we've got a couple of other key takeaways the fans were obviously the other major point for performance so yeah that's that's gonna be it for the

Teardown it looks like the shipping units now versus the early review samples which should have been retail units but might have changed in the months since they're a bit different and how the fans

Connected on the bottom it looks like it's a better easier to design to work with or at least one that the user can interface with a little bit easier there's an extra point of failure in the solder joint but it's unlikely that

Fails unless you really like yank it out of there and at that point you'd have to solder it back in but otherwise that's the Arctic cooler hopefully that sheds some light on how they design it if you want to see other tear downs in this

Series we recently did the crab can X 63 and in that video we have comparisons to the previous ASA Tech coolers and some others that we've taken apart over the years but that's it for this one thanks for watching subscribe

For more as always get a straw doc gamers excess net to help us out directly or patreon.com slash gamers Nexus and we'll see you all next time

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