2012 Honda Odyssey Power Steering Rack Replacement

published on August 3, 2020

Greetings viewers thanks for stopping by the shop today and in today's episode i'm going to be replacing the power steering rack on my 2012 honda odyssey now i have kind of a weird problem that i believe is the result of a collision

The van was in before i purchased it what happens is when i'm driving along and i go over bumps i get sort of a rattle in the steering column that i sort of feel on the steering wheel it's very slight

But it is noticeable and it does kind of bug me and i believe there was some damage internally to the power steering rack that happened during that collision now it is possible to go in and adjust

The clearance between the uh pinion and the rack assembly inside the rack and i've done that and i still kind of have the same problem and you have to be careful with that because if you go too far

Well you can kind of mess things up i've come to the point where i've said you know what i'm just going to throw a rack in it see what happens and make a video so stick around check it out one of the main reasons

This is happening today is because i got a total score on ebay i bought a brand new honda power steering rack not remanufactured or anything brand new honda part off of ebay got it for 400 bucks also

Had to pay for shipping but anyway so this is legit factory part thing about it is is it doesn't come with any uh inner tie rods or rack boots or any of that stuff but that's going to work in my favor and

The reason i say that is because that will mean that i don't have to do any counting of the threads on the tie rods or anything the the complete assemblies that i'm taking off i could put back on

It shouldn't affect the alignment too much but i am going to get a follow-up alignment anyway well here's what's left of the part number i'll link it in the description so you know what i'm using

Now in addition to doing the power steering rack i also did a major service and a timing belt water pump on this van but it's created a challenge now that it's on the lift and all the wheels are off

I'm not able to open the door far enough without hitting the left for me to get it down in here so i'm going to have to employ other methods but job one for me is going to be to get down in underneath

The dash and disconnect these power the steering column from the power steering rack you can take the center console cup holder assembly out there's a herdy plastic piece under it then i'm going to

Put a fender cover over but this will help open things up in here now one thing that is important with this is to make sure that your steering wheel is straight ahead when you're doing this so

That when you remove the rack it's in the straight ahead position that's what we're after right there peeled back everything to reveal and just sort of put that under the gas pedal there um it just pulls off but

There is a 10 millimeter fastener right down in here which is facing in exactly the opposite direction at the moment i'm going to like turn the wheel get the bolt where i can access it

Better like this but before i remove it i'm going to turn it back to where it was and center everything up now bring the steering wheel back to center

And turn the key off now i should be able to pull this up off of the power steering rack there we are now i'll remove the tie rod ends trying to be careful not to change the

Orientation of the steering wheel because we just disconnected it from the steering column these are 17 millimeter now i've already checked for looseness in both the inner and outer tie rods

And i didn't find any i'm going to leave this in place for the moment and head over to the other side and remove that nut and once it's up in the air i'll knock both ends loose to get these loose i like to use a

Hammer this protrusion that's sticking out hit what it goes through i'll hit right here on the knuckle and this will pop loose so when you see me hitting i'm going to be hitting right here on

The knuckle not on anything with the tie rod end just on the knuckle the real challenge to this and i've

Never done a rack on this year before is the engine mount i may need to undo that engine mount and lift the engine slightly in order to get that out you may notice a heat shield that's here

That's right behind this catalytic converter i'm going to have to remove that there's a couple of 10 millimeters one of them attaches to that very engine mount that i spoke of another one is just above

On top of the mounting there so you might be able to see that maybe a little better from over here that one is located right down in here before i disconnect that heat shield

There is there are two lines going into the power steering rack one's a low pressure side which is this rubber hose and then the opposite side there is a hard line going in right here so you see this if

You follow this hard line over this one goes into the top of the power steering rack right up in this area anyway those are the only two lines that i need to be concerned about and also while we're here

These are the two fasteners holding this side of the power steering rack in place and there's a better view of that engine mount and the power steering rack going underneath it the reason i bring this up is my

Intention is to disconnect this low pressure line right here there's a 10 millimeter fastener and let it hang down and drain out that way i can drain all the power steering fluid out

Anytime there's damage in a power steering system or any hydraulic system for that matter it's a good idea to get as much of the old fluid out as you can so you can get rid of any contaminants that might

Be there i've already positioned my drain pan underneath here for when this starts to drain out i'm gonna try to keep things clean while i work know that no matter how hard you

Try if you disconnect anything liquid near the subframe it's gonna go everywhere and make a mess on your floor it's just a fact of life that is the fastener or the first

Fastener i'm going to remove on that heat shield all right you may be able to see that second fastener right there one of the hard lines for the power

Steering attaches to the subframe right here and where i am is right by the exhaust right there there's a 10 millimeter fastener that holds a bracket and holds this down

You might see it a little better from over here i'm not sure but anyway i'm going to remove the 10 millimeter fastener that's holding this down now that way i'm able to move that line

Around and get better access to those fasteners on this side of the power steering rack also it's going to make it easier when i go to disconnect this hard line from the

Power steering rack up here a little bracket that goes with this fastener now this line is loose and can be moved around a little bit now i'm going to remove

These two 14 millimeter fasteners i'm using this tool to get down in there you need to start with something longer to break it loose but the key is short extension and a steep wall socket maybe i can get away with something on

This one maybe i win let's see if i can pry this bracket up off of here i might also remove the rubber boot that went around it now we'll remove the hard line going

Into the power steering rack which is located right there it's a 14 millimeter i'm using a line wrench and i highly recommend you use one also this is what a line wrench is it

Wraps around the fitting way better and helps prevent rounding it once you break it loose use whatever wrench you want believe there's only two fasteners left this one

And this one they're both 17 millimeter i lied they're 19 appears to be a nut on the other side oh there's also a bracket here so it appears that on the other side of this

Particular fastener there's a nut feels like it might be 17 millimeter but if you follow along there's this bracket and right here there's what feels like a 14 millimeter this bracket's gonna have to come loose

In order for everything to come out i believe that is a 14 millimeter fastener the upper fastener is a 17 there's my bracket that nut i spoke of bolt's not coming out at the moment but

It might come loose after this one so feel on the other side of this bolt there's a nut i believe it's also 17 and there's also a bracket over here there's the nut but it's also attached to a bracket it

Has another 14 millimeter right about here on this that you'll need to remove there's the 14 here's the nut

There's the bracket looks like they're two different lengths this top one is shorter than the bottom one which is longer so the one that goes

Further through the subframe is longer but they're two different lengths here short goes on top long on bottom with everything disconnected i'm thinking that should mean i have my power steering rack now and i can just

Negotiate it in this direction to get it out let's see if that's true i wish you could say it were true the issue is right here the uh part that sticks up into the passenger

Compartment is not dropping down far enough to be released i'm going to drop the subframe a little bit and i'm going to do this right here um actually here i'm gonna loosen both

Of these these are 17 millimeter i'm going to start by loosening this one and i'm just going to loosen this one a little bit at a time until i have just enough drop there's plenty more holding everything

In place so i'm not too worried about everything coming crashing down on me but not a bad idea to maybe support this if if you're nervous about it and that may be just enough

Please be enough oh you're so close maybe a little help to that subframe i am so stinking close but i still need a little more so i'm gonna find the front attachment

To the subframe you may not have to drop any of the splash shield you can kind of see the bolt for it right up through there i'm gonna try to sneak up through there and just loosen that up a little bit

not taking these all the way out though just hopefully enough you don't have to go home but you can't stay here engine mount time so the issue is

That it's down at such an angle to where the top part's hitting the back side of it and it won't come all the way through so it's these four fasteners underneath it that i'm gonna take out put a engine

Stand up under here and maybe lift it up a little bit i don't know for certain but i think they're all the same length

So if you're also looking to lift up and support the transmission and you don't have a lift you can do this exact same thing use a floor jack in place of this just be sure to put a wood block or something in between the

Two things so that you don't damage the transmission at all i've come to the conclusion that removing this bracket underneath the engine mount is probably going to be a good idea in

Order to remove the bracket there are four 14 millimeter fasteners around here but to remove the entire engine mount there's another single 14 millimeter fastener that goes up in

Through this in this direction see if i can get a it's just above where you can see there anyway we'll just start with this and see if that's enough

Well it doesn't want to come out so easy all right rear engine mount's gonna have to come off don't forget to disconnect the electrical connection there just up above here there's a 14

Millimeter fastener there's that 14 so as an added bonus with this video you now know how to replace a rear engine mount and a 2012 honda odyssey right you get so much value here at eric

The car guy now i should be able to remove this bracket quite easily in fact fyi going back in i just noticed that there's an arrow here that points towards the rear so make sure it goes in with this side

Facing towards the rear all kinds of room back here now it's just awkward and this is just power steering racks i'm having an issue with this line right here

That's catching on things this has to come off and be transferred to the other rack anyway so i'm just going to remove it now it is a 17 millimeter

That's what i was after ditto alive you're coming with me all right i learned something it comes out better on the passenger side finally there's some lines here there's the ac

Drain and some other lines that are a little bit farther up also is that the shift cable i'm not really sure anyway there's stuff to be avoided as you're moving this way

So be careful but removing the engine mount going out the passenger side seems to be the way it's clear that this rack was leaking and from up in like this area now earlier i mentioned

That you can actually tighten these racks up and to do that there's this you there's actually a special tool from this from honda but if you can get up on here it's

A miracle anyway you loosen this jam nut and then you can turn this 3 8 plug clockwise we'll tighten things up counterclockwise will loosen things up super important that you do this only with the wheels straight ahead and

Forward and don't over tighten it you over tighten it you'll bind everything up and you'll ruin the rack for sure so be careful of that well we're here now and given that my new rack doesn't have

Any boots or anything or inner tie rods or any of that kind of stuff i've got to transfer it all over i'm just going to remove these clamps i'm going to replace them with zip ties on both sides i've done that

Successfully for years it's not a problem but i'm going to move these back so that i can access the inner tie rods and spin them off of the inner joints here and then transfer them

Over i didn't check to see if this had a master spline here meaning that there's only one way for it to go in it doesn't look like there is so that is well

If i'm honest scary in a way this plastic piece fell off the one that's on here now and i'm not sure if it's in the correct orientation i just need to make sure the wheels are

Pointed straight ahead if not i have to take the steering column shaft off of here move it put it back on this shaft is splined in such a way to where you can install the steering column on multiple

Ways that brand new rack sure is pretty though z inner tie rod joint a little bit of rust down in there nothing i'm too concerned about this is sort of like a locking washer

That needs to go underneath here but you can put a wrench on here and i can oftentimes use a pipe wrench to knock this loose i want to be sure to get this one set up in the same orientation as this because i know i

Took this off and the steering wheel was centered i don't want to have to be messing around with that because if you get the steering wheel too far off there's a cable wheel or an electrical

Connection right underneath it that if you turn it too far one way you can break it and your airbag and your all of your radio controls and your horn and everything all that runs through that electrical

Connection you destroy that well that's an expensive fix so you do not want to do that this is a 23 millimeter that holds the power steering shaft and i don't have a wrench large enough for

The other before i do that knock these back a little bit the tabs that is once this is off i'll be able to just lay it on the table and flatten it out

i know that's tool abuse sorry so that washer is bent back far enough now it's a lock washer but now that it's loose i usually come

Off real easy and because i'm not messing with this at all that means that i shouldn't have to worry about an alignment getting one anyway i got that washer off this is how we

Deal with them no one will never know except us don't tell anybody get a better measurement now this one's sticking out about three and an eighth this one needs to go in some it's about

Three and five eighths i'm going to uh very carefully turn this okay we're at three and an eighth now this washer you see that slot right there these tabs need to fit into that slot to

Do that i'm going to take these needle nose pliers bend them down there we are most likely what you'll be doing is replacing with a remanufactured

Unit that already has inner tie rods installed if that's the case you take the outer tie rod ends off count the number of threads that are between this nut and this shaft

And that'll get you close you're still going to need alignment no matter what but you basically take this nut and this tie rod end off and this whole assembly you won't even have

To mess with it once you feel you've got it on there securely take those ends hammer them over i'm gonna give up two of my super zip ties for this

This one looks about the same this one on this side sticking out two and a half this one is also a two and a half goodbye old power steering rack love this work surface

I absolutely love it and this little bit of knowledge comes from the fact that i've had to replace inner tie rods or a power steering rack in the past uh at honda and we didn't have these and

Rather than holding everything up um it just seems easier to do this also this could save you some money come on but if you want you can purchase new washers if possible and i remember i'll link

Them in the description for you so that's ready to install so you just have to twist it move it

Make sure that it clears stuff as it's going in take your time keep an eye out for stuff don't break anything it's certainly going to in easier than it came out i removed this

Rubber seal that goes up against the body now i'm going to reinstall it it's easier to show you here on the bench you see how there's this cutaway here that cutaway goes around this line

Just push it down on there you can see how it straddles that that boss that comes off for that inlet line remember the long bolt goes through the

Bottom the whole book bolt goes through the top all right did i say long long bolt goes to the bottom short bolt goes to the top if i didn't

Say that that's what i meant to say the rack's now loosely bolted in in position all the brackets and everything are in place and everything is threaded not tight now i'm going to put that

Engine mount back in as far as which way this ends up the electrical connection faces towards you so when you're done make sure that face is towards you because there's no

Electrical connection on the other side that was a bad noise ah arms aren't supposed to bend that way remember this had markings for rear that took a minute probably would have

Went in easier if i put a put the bottom in first these bolts that go into the lower engine mount bracket are all the same length seem to be making swift progress now and

I'd done one of these before i would have better information for you and i would have gone for this engine mount first thing but here we are know that the rear engine

Mount's got to come out so i'm glad you watched this video before you tried to take the power steering rack out right don't tell me you already got it halfway out and you're wondering how it comes

Out well this is your future i now feel that i can go back in undo all this stuff give me my pry bar back thank you make this a little more

Relaxed now that all the fasteners are started i'm not so worried about it but i don't want to run this up and jam the transmission up at the same time that's once again secure

Just going to go for it lock this side down with this bracket the rubber part around the outside put the bracket there the uh fastener side faces towards the exhaust because that's what the heat

Shield attaches to if you want to make this go a little bit easier spray the inside with silicone spray now we'll tighten down

That engine mount and the power steering stuff or the rack stuff now when i ran down the bolt that went through the top of the engine mount i got it almost flush

That way i'm not having to thread it all the way through because there's a little bit of stress on it now because the way the engine's back on it i don't have that bracelet underneath here anymore

I'm sorry i don't know torque specs on any of this but snug it up but don't be stupid take that for what it's worth why didn't you mention it i forgot to have my safety glasses on while i was running

Those bolts up before why don't you say anything got them on now and tightening the power steering rack down now this is the 14 millimeters that

Are the supporting bracket that goes with those fasteners that i just tightened for the power steering rack here's how things are looking at the moment i need to reattach my high pressure line which i'm going to do now

And then remember there's a bracket that held it down over here but i'm going to attach it to the rack first up there and then i'll uh mount the bracket getting closer that low pressure line

Connect the end tie rod ends ready to put some fluid in it take it out and see if all this effort was worth it not to mention money remember this guy i don't unclip the plastic thing that

Held that down it helped tremendously you don't necessarily need to run it all the way down just make it snug i'm gonna do a little house cleaning now spray everything down with some brake

Clean and i'll lower it down so that i can get the tie rod ends connected one of the main reasons to do this if your new rack sprouts a leak you want to know about it if there's still stuff

On the everywhere oh yeah i got to do that exhaust shield too that's only a couple of 10 millimeters we'll do that real quick but you want to be able to spot new leaks

And a good way to do that is to make sure everything's clean when you're done that way anything new you'd be like aha there it is there's my leak let's get this exhaust shield

Reinstalled seriously don't forget this shield you don't want to heat up power steering fluid doesn't work as good when it's hot and right behind this catalytic converter is

One of the hottest parts of the exhaust hence the reason they put this shield here you'd be amazed how much cooling you get out of just simple shielding now we're done well except for tie rod

Ends the fluid that leaked out into this subframe may drip out a bit over time despite my cleaning and my compressed air and all that stuff just sort of the nature of the beast

It's a hollow thing there are lots of cracks and crevices and fluid finds away so you may notice little drips and things from this area you can do what you can to try to clean things up like what i have here keep an

Eye on it it should dissipate after a couple of days any leaks that might appear to develop for stuff that might still be coming out of these holes and such

Just be aware of it all right let's get these tie rod ends reconnected i know this will cause controversy but you know what i don't care i have yet to see a cotter pin i've reused like this i mean this is

If it was all rusty and crusty yeah but it's not even going through anything casselated it's just holding the nut there also it's my van that's encouraging that that just went right up in there because that means

That i didn't move it around a whole lot when i got it up in all right let's get that steering wheel reconnected i'm not too worried about the steering

Wheel at the moment i know as long as i've got it lined up when i'm all done that should be all that's required looks like one more notch that looks like it if not when we drive

It we can undo it and fix it let's get some fluid in it and uh i'll drive it and see if our steering wheel straight

Gonna fill up the system now i know somebody in the comments because i'm about to say the only power steering fluid that should go in a honda power steering fluid is honda power steering fluid

I know this is accurate on it but i don't know if you're aware but acura is also honda anyway you can use whatever you want but as far as what i'm saying and what i'm recommending

It's honda power steering fluid what am i recommending honda power steering fluid exactly how much you'll need will probably vary but i say get at least two quarts or two of these bottles

I know i'm gonna need more i'm gonna start it up the power steering fluid is topped off i also did a major service and timing belt on this so i've got the coolant ready to bleed

As well i'm going to be prepared to top this off almost immediately there's likely going to be some noise from the power steering pump as a result of some air in the system but i want to keep this topped off to keep as

Well as much of that air out of the system as possible not as much noise as i thought i'm okay with that well there's more noise i'm just gonna let that sit

And idle for a minute let what's in there circulate through and then i'll probably shut it off because i find that that sometimes helps the air just dissipate easier

Just gonna shut that off and let it sit wait for that to happen and uh clean it up and let some of this air get out of here all right let's try this again

Sounds better but it's low again now i'm going to turn the wheel lock to lock but i don't want to linger at the ends but that will help bleed it out also

Moves easily which is great and now shut it off and let the air get out again no overflow this time i didn't fill it up as much i don't know if you can see that just

Let it sit until those bubbles dissipate they will so while that air is coming out i'm gonna come down here and just look around see if there are any leaks that i can see

So far things are looking good that high pressure line is one of my main concerns so i'm going to clean it off one more time clean up the other new mess i just made

And then we'll recheck to see if our air is gone didn't take long and the air is dissipated much quieter i'm only going to fill it up to the bottom mark

I need to bleed this cooling system so i'm going to bring it up to operating temperature after i've done that i'll recheck the level and we'll put it at the hot fill level

Be right back sounds good now right just take some time you know shut it off let the air bubble out start it up again if it's noisy do the same thing repeat until it's good i now have everything topped off

I'm gonna get this engine cover back on we'll take it out for a drive and see if all this effort was worth it so far i can already feel the difference we're on a bumpy road and i don't feel the steering while wobbling around at

All like i did before so i think it's a win already steering wheel is way off though i have to correct that shouldn't be too hard i'll just take it up off of that mount and remount it

When i pull it in i'll try to pull it in straight but so far all the bumps i'm hitting i don't feel what i used to feel before that means that money that time that effort

Worth it well viewers i'm calling this a win here's some railroad tracks i'm not feeling it through the steering wheel not like i used to problem solved so you know what that means

That means we get a second video dissecting that power steering rack why because well it's not remanufactured it's new which means that i can do whatever i want with it so i'm going to take it

Apart and make a video and see if we can't show you exactly what went wrong with it i'll post a link to that in the description when it becomes available but for now i've shown you how to replace

Said rack in this 2012 honda odyssey that rear engine mount be prepared but once you get that out of the way it's actually pretty easy go out the passenger side

Bang you're done my steering wheel isn't straight i'm going to take it back to the shop now and fix that the process is exactly the same as what i showed you it was probably correct to begin with and i probably should have

Just put it on and been done with it but i just got to make sure i pull it into the shop and do the same thing i did before setting it all up and we'll be fine i'll put links in the description to

Parts tools additional information so check the description if you have additional questions and such if you have automotive questions i ask that you head to air at thecarguycom also linked in the description please be

Sure to like comment subscribe share the video with the world appreciate it when you do that thank you so much for watching today i will see you next time bye

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