2004-2008 Acura TL Rear Strut Replacement

by birtanpublished on August 25, 2020

Greetings viewers and welcome to today's episode of air at the car guy where we will be replacing the rear struts on this 2008 Acura TL I should point out that even though I'm working on a 2008 Acura TL all this information will also apply to Honda Accords of the same

Vintage here are the struts that I'll be installing on my TL today as you can see the part number is the same for both I'm installing original equipment struts and I strongly highly recommend original equipment dampers for your Hondas and

Acuras I haven't found anything yet aftermarket that works as well however you can purchase complete strut assemblies they come with a coil spring and all the other parts to it from Honda and you can also purchase those out in

The world from other companies as well but my preference is for original equipment stuff before you get started with this job it's probably not a bad idea to take the front seats and move them as far forward as you can possibly

Get them accessing things from underneath the vehicle is not nearly as difficult as this part of the job where you need to remove the rear seat assembly in order to access the top fasteners of the struts start by

Removing the bottom seat cushion there are a couple of Clips underneath which will be easier to show after I pull it out but if they don't pull out and I'll show you pushing down on the seat is helpful there we go I've got one side so

If they don't if they're difficult to pull out you got to push down on the seat it seems counterintuitive and then pull them out so these clips are located in the middle of the rear seat so feel up under there and you'll feel them else

You don't see in a second push down pull out lift up alright over here on the passenger side sort of so you show you there's a 10 millimeter fastener it's right there that needs to be removed in order to get

This lower portion the rest of the way out and that gets you the rest of the seat so these are those releases that I was talking about there's one of these on each side so as I said if you're having

Trouble pulling it out push down on the seat a bit and it should come out a little bit easier but there's one on this side and also one on the other side and on the driver's side virtually in the same location as the original

Fastener you removed to get the other seat out is another ten millimeter fastener and then down on the lower corners of each side there's another ten millimeter here's the one on the other side

Now for the hidden fasteners they're gonna be two and they're underneath the headrest so there's a little plastic glass which you're what I'm down in here you can actually pull the headrest out there's a release for the headrest now

This is where the hidden fastener is so to see this seam right here if you separate it like this and it's going to be impossible for me to show you until it's out but behind this and through this hole down at the bottom of it is

Another ten millimeter that you need to loosen you don't need to take this one all the way out you just need to loosen it a little bit and you'll see what I mean when I get this up off of here is go down through around till I hit the

Fastener okay I'm on the fastener once again you don't need to remove it just loosen it carefully you don't want to lose your socket down in there in fact you might want to put a piece of tape around the end of it so that when you

Try to remove it it doesn't get pulled through and go through here you don't necessarily have to remove the headrest I just think it's easier because as long as you can expose this area you're good it says you need to replace the battery

Gave it a super battery for a run to the other side I'm just gonna move this seatbelt to the side a little bit come to think of it it's okay if you take these all the way out and put them loosely back in before you reinstall it

Middle seat belt can just sort of stay let go be careful of those little plastic covers I personally don't care about mine but the little plastic covers on the sill plates you might consider removing before doing this to avoid any

Damage this is where that bolt goes and this is why I said you don't have to remove the whole thing necessarily you can just push up on it fish in here and see big yeah there it is so it's probably just easiest to loosen these

All the way when you remove it they fit up in here like this so that I don't lose track I'm just gonna thread it into place so when I put it back together goes together easier and don't lose track of it with the rear seat removed

You can see where the fasteners are to the top of the strut now the instructions say that remove this whole deck lid and everything but you can sneak back in here these are fourteen millimeter fasteners there's two of them

There's one here and one on the opposite side in the back remove those two fasteners and the strut will come out that's the same on both sides now you can do this in any order you see fit you can start down here or start on

The inside eventually you're gonna have to do both I prefer to start on the inside and then work to the outside now that we're outside remove the wheels stabby chords forgot about those here's the entire reason I'm replacing the

Strut because this one leaked out also I heard a noise coming from this area when going over bumps but anytime you see any leakage around struts like this nine times out of ten it's a bad strut and needs to replace me so this is why we

Hear there's one through bolt that holds the bottom strut on this nut is welded to that piece there but I'm going to hit it with a bit of penetrating oil before I get started and I'll do that to both sides

This is 17 millimeter want to get something to knock this out with remember the two 14s that were holding

It on at the top it's gonna be my weapon of choice just a 3/8 ratchet and a deep 14 and that will clear the top of it I like to go for the back one first it's easier to access well I think it's easier to do the last one it's being

Close to you and you can push this up a little bit to get access in there who needs electric tools I've got hands one two here's the problem the strut is hitting the stabilizer link right here last thing I want to do is

Disconnect the stabilizer link because I can almost guarantee that I'll have to purchase a stabilizer link if I try to remove this but if I did remove it it would make this whole job a lot easier maybe soak it with some penetrating oil

Just to you know be pre-emptive now there's an allen head on the inside of this stud that's sticking out the thing is is whenever I try to get into that thing I almost always strip it out the other option is to let grab the other

Side with a pair of vise grips like I said at the end of the day this may end up with miry having to replace stabilizer links which may have to be included in your parts list if you're going to do this job 14 millimeter

Is really weird and I should keep quiet until I'm done but I almost thought it was coming off be careful of this ABS wire while you're in here I'm going under it I'm going to try to hold the back of the stud with this vise grips

Since it's out far enough now still seems viable doesn't look like I'll have to replace it yes I win now if you're installing quick struts or complete assemblies these are about I think 50 to 70 dollars more from Honda

For a complete assembly you just put the new assembly in and do the reverse of what you just saw as far as me I have a spring compressor I'm just gonna replace the damper portion and install it back in the car

Afterwards same thing on the side hopefully some heat very careful not to damage the rubber boot and go that way too now I'm super fortunate to have this wall-mounted spring compressor that is

About the safest thing you can use to compress these coil springs and replace these struts these rear struts aren't as bad as front struts what I would recommend if you don't have something like this is one of two options getting

The complete assembly struts that you can just put up in there and not have to mess with this at all or you can remove your struts and maybe take them someplace to where they have a spring compressor like this and have them

Replace them for you either way I think that's a safer option what I want to do is mark like where this sets because it's important that this goes back in the same way it came out in other words if we look at this these studs are sort

Of in line with what's happening down here if we get this on here and it's off and you know a few degrees this way or that way we'll have a hard time getting you know getting it reinstalled into the car so I'm trying to make sure that as I

Do this what I end up with in the end is something that will just go right in so I want when I put the new strut in here for it to go in almost identically this is where the spring will sit in this little notch here the notch is similarly

Positioned I'm just trying to get a feel for like when I install this up in here that it's gonna virtually go in the same location wow that is so done like so done gross this sleeve has virtually rusted into

Place and I need to remove it penetrating oil spend pretty good to me so far don't let that soak in for a minute but I'm trying to figure out a strategy that I can use to get in here and knock this

Loose to avoid damage to this bushing I'll just take this off right now and thankfully it's split I'm just gonna try to open it up a little more with this chisel this is where completed strut assemblies would have taken care of this

Problem the Allen socket that I'm using is in number 5 so I'm using a number 5 Allen socket on the strut I did it sweet now we need to transfer all this stuff from this strut over to the new strut

Now we're strip down naked to the bare bones of it but anytime you can do this with a strut like this it's kind of junk garbage something I just do and I've just done this before I install any struts I can press them a couple of

Times just to make sure that they're moving and flowing right I have installed some aftermarket struts where I do not do this and it made a lot of noise so I've just got in the practice of just doing it

I know right this guy it's on like this then above that is this which is tapered so the inside of this is tapered and the upper part of this is tapered so this goes on this way the flat side facing up like that next will come the dust boot

The top of that and we've got that little washer and we have a sleeve and then we have this guy which faces up like that I could go through the trouble to clean up all the goop off of this but this is my $200 car I don't have to care

Making sure that that spring is seated correctly on the strut because that's gonna help position it where I want it truth be told this is a nighlok nylon locknut you really should replace this I'm

Reusing it I don't feel bad about it but just as an FYI it's a good idea to replace that once the nut is tight which it stopped where it wanted to stop you don't need to run this down to the point of no-return that's sticking up about

The same amount of threads as it was to start with in fact we can compare it to the other side but at this point now we just want to take one last check to make sure it's seated down in here well and with that we're done

Hopefully everything up top stayed lined up so far so good I'm prying down on the subframe back here and I'm on this upper control arm trying to avoid hitting the brakes I'm not gonna damage that control arm with what I'm doing here can you use

This drift punch to go through the other side to sort of hold it in place so I can move it around to get the bolt started first I have to get it somewhat in line once you got the drift punch in you got like the most leverage you can

Move it around really easily and put it where you want it I'm sure there's a torque spec for that I'm gonna wait and reconnect both stabilizer links at the same time because as you can see with both of them disconnected I've got a lot

More movement if I connect one side now it's gonna be more difficult to install the other side so look at the other side down and then do these last every once in while I get a guy like this and I think I stated this isn't my

Favorite thing to do but here's the deal when you're using the gun you tighten you don't loosen so when you're on this you tighten never like I said tighten don't loosen this one came apart a little differently so the sleeve and

Everything stayed up in there so just remove this piece the dust boot came off nicely everything over here came apart swimmingly so on the other one the sleeve that goes through here and this bottom bushing that comes up to the

Other side so there's another bushing like this underneath and then you could see the top of the sleeve right there so that's what came out last time we did this it did not this time however so bumpstop the bevel faces the bevel like

That dust boot top washer and just make sure that that lines up down in here when it goes together so the spring conceit down in there anytime I've got the nut on I'm always like safe because there's no way that

This can come apart now that I've got a few threads on this so it's like it's like the bomb is diffused spring is also seated properly in the strut this is important when we go to reinstall yeah one of these spring compressors Springs

Are no problem I honestly don't think it matters which way this goes up in there so I take advantage of the fact like I said I don't think it matters what way it goes up in there it wasn't going into one way so I just turned it around now

It seems to be more cooperative now some viewers may look at that previous clip and have an issue with what I just did and that's tightened that lower strut bolt while everything was up in the air and they do have a

Point so this is their point so say this is the control arm here and this is the bolt that I just tighten that goes through that strut well the suspension is up in the air hanging down fully

Relaxed as far as it can go well when I let the vehicle down onto the ground what happens is that suspension will compress and as it does it's going to actually put a little bit of a twist or a little bit of stress on that bushing

That's in the bottom of that strut that I just tightened when it was up in the air so it's a real good idea to tighten things like that when it's on the ground and the weight of the vehicle is on it that way you don't stress the bushings

So I'm gonna go back in there now loosen those bolts and retighten them with the vehicle on the ground I don't know if this will run down or not but I'm gonna try and maybe to help it out a little bit

That was the solution that worked needlenose vise-grips I can hold it all the way down let's try it on the other side with everything connected underneath oh we got our two nuts up top to redo that was my mind torque wrench

Going on thing to remember when putting the seat back is make sure your seat belts are over the top of the seat before you do your final lock it into place and be careful of the sill plates once again

So they have to be over-the-top like that before you do your final and just falls into place when you got them hooked in you'll feel it I'd recommend you get the other fasteners started first make sure the seat belts all work

That's super important I think it was yeah it's that side that gets the longer bolt that goes through both this side just have the lower one that goes in like this now that they're threaded in I'm gonna run them down

know this the seats up seat belt buckles up first before you fully commit right in that one right in those clips just sort of fall right in last but not least final didn't fastener and there we have

Rear strut replacement on a 2008 Acura TL also will work for Honda Accords of the same vintage it is a little fiddly getting the back seat out and that kind of thing is probably in my opinion gonna be one of your most difficult things

Also as mentioned you might want to consider getting some rear stabilizer lengths just in case because those might get destroyed in the process of removal and replacement of these struts I do remember put a link in the description

To the honda assemblies which i recommend there are other ones out there but personally I prefer Honda parts on Honda vehicles to me that work out best anyway links to that in the description along with additional information so

Please check the description if you have questions if you have automotive questions not covered in this video I asked you head to at the car guy comm I'll link that in the description for you please be sure to LIKE comment and

Subscribe and share this video with the entire world because it's so awesome right and I hope it helped you be safe have fun stay dirty thank you so much for watching and I'll see you next time

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