04-08 Acura TL Major Service Overview

by birtanpublished on August 23, 2020

Greetings viewers it's me here at the car guys thanks for tuning in today today I'm going to be performing a quote-unquote major service on my 2008 T L which pretty much involves replacing the filters the fluids the spark plugs this is the more the major service as

Far as the spark plugs does get replaced every 105 thousand miles or so I'm also throwing in a couple of extra things I noticed when I removed my radiator cap that it looked like this there's supposed to be another valve that's on

Here that I sometimes see this go away so I just replaced this with one that I had this is the radiator cap that I had lying around and they're supposed to look like this underneath you see that valve was missing from that previous

Radiator cap in addition to that somebody replaced the battery cables which you might have seen during the inspection video so I'm gonna replace them with these or just a positive one with this I'm covering the cabin air

Filter replacement in a separate video of go over it here I'm also going to be replacing the timing belt and water pump which I will also be covering specifically in another video but pretty much this would be a smackdown on a 2008

TL which is like 2004 through 2008 TL also very similar to a v6 accord I'm just putting regular 5w 20 engine oil in this time and not doing any kind of synthetic but I might consider well actually I would consider putting high

Mileage oil in this engine since it has almost 200,000 miles on it as far as a transmission fluid I'm using Honda automatic transmission fluid which is the only transmission fluid I recommend for Honda's I'm also going to be using

The Honda blue coolant for this service as well as a Honda oil filter these NGK laser Iridium spark plugs are the original equipment spark plugs you need six of them when doing a major service like this it's also a good idea to

Replace the wiper blades I usually like to replace them in the spring in the fall anyway I ended up replacing these after the windshield was replaced while you're at it it's also a good idea to check all of your lights and turn

Signals to make sure that everything is working properly job one is going to be to remove some engine covers to gain access I'm not going to cover the removal of these plastic covers in detail in this video I actually covered

That in the o2 sensor replacement video so if you want detail on that I'll link that down in the description otherwise it's just a matter of being careful when removing things so that you don't break them I'm also not

Covering the detail of a removal of this upper strut brace in this video that is also covered in the o2 sensor video which once again I'll link in the description I like to combine steps when I'm doing my service now if you're

Working at home with a floor jack and jack stands you would probably start by lifting up the front and the back and getting up off the ground and lowering it down on jack stands I'm just doing the same thing here with a lift but what

I'll start with is I'll start draining the fluid starting with the oil since we also have to drain the transmission fluid there's a splash shield here that needs to come down but while the oil is draining my plan is

To take the wheels off I would also check the tire pressures and if you're doing a tire rotation rotate the tires and we can service the brakes although I'm replacing the brakes on this car you'll need a 17 millimeter

Hopefully it's 17 hopefully it hasn't been to a quick lube place and it's now something else 17 it is want to make sure I got that washer with it I'm also going to knock the oil filter loose so that I'm going

To need a wrench for it so that that can also drain once you take the wheel off the next thing you want to do is remove this inner cover which kind of goes across the front here you really only need to

Like pull it past half of it but I'm you know in other words you only need to disconnect it down to about here and then you can roll it back up underneath I'll show you that now and I use this tool for removing the plastic Clips it

Sort of pinches and pulls them out I'll show you when I get the chance to see one up close here's one you can actually see squeezes and pulls it through so you're just gonna pull it up a little bit it's also clips here another one

Back here a little bit of wd-40 on these helps these come apart a little bit easier but that's all I should need to take out now you can just sort of pull this down move it out of the way like this and I'll just take a bungee cord

Hook it in here you do not need to remove the lower splash shield in order to drain the coolant on this vehicle I did it because in addition to the major service I was also doing a timing belt and water pump and replacing the inner

Fender liners on both sides so for me it made sense to do it but if all you're doing is a service and draining and refilling the coolant you don't need to remove the splash shield in order to do that there's some gunk on the front of

This engine and I'm just going to try to clean it up before I start taking things apart so that way when I take things apart I don't introduce dirt into places I don't want it to be good install the oil

Filter now take a little bit of the old oil put it on the seal make sure you don't double gasket it has happened to me before like make sure there's no oil make sure there's no oil filter gaskets still present here

I'm gonna reinstall my drain plug with a new crust washer to get this shield down there are plastic Clips sort of ringing the perimeter and then there's a 10 millimeter fastener here and one up in

Here it's just so much easier to remove this than it is to try and I'm using this tool I'll link it in the description to get these clips out if they give you trouble hit them with a little wd-40 and they come out a little

Easier these are ten millimeter fasteners if I didn't mention that already yeah there's a transmission it's hard to say exactly what this is I normally start with oil leaks up towards the top so I wouldn't immediately assume

That this is a rear main seal leak in here because this is the engine and this is the transmission this is where they made that seal would be up underneath here even so at almost 200,000 miles this could just be that amount of

Seepage it's hard to say I don't think this car was serviced very regularly so I'm gonna come in clean everything off and then I'll monitor stuff so in other words if I start to see leaks in here then I'll I'll be concerned but other

Ways otherwise they'll just leave it because to do the rear main seal reads me means removing the transmission not inclined to do that at this time so this is the area after I've quote-unquote cleaned it I didn't do a

Stellar job on it I'm really just trying to keep the areas like around here clear of any well to make it dry and if it starts to get wet and depending upon how long it takes to get there I can gauge how severe that leak is or isn't it's

Been about a month and a half two months since I shot the footage you just saw me cleaning this area and as you can see a little bit of oil has returned I believe this is likely from a rear main seal leak I did replace the valve cover

Gaskets like a like I've mentioned I like to start with oil eeks up high first and work my way down this doesn't look severe enough for me to warrant removing the transmission and replacing this seal

Just yet but I'm pointing this out to basically illustrate that during a service you want to look out for problems like this or leaks any kind of leaks not just oil leaks coolant leaks so that you can keep an eye on them this

Is the idea of maintenance so that you can keep an eye on issues like this before they become real problems that's the entire reason that you want to service and observe what's going on with your vehicle so I'm just pointing this

Out so that you have an idea of what to look for and perhaps how to go about addressing leaks like this one transmission drain plug is located here you just need a 3/8 ratchet to go in the drain plug has a magnet on it it's

Normal to have stuff on here so don't be thinking if you've got stuff on here it's bad but that's normal to see that in fact with this engine and a parent or transmission and apparent lack of maintenance I would have expected to see

More so that's not as bad as I thought it would be I'm gonna be replacing these inner fender liners as I've mentioned on both sides so I'm just gonna take this whole front splash shield down it's just you just find the clips and undo I'm

Like like I showed you on the other ones once it starts to get to the point where it's dripping we reinstall the drain plug you can reuse this crush washer a few times I wouldn't sweat it too much in fact I don't think it was leaking but

You don't need to over torque just snug it out there's nothing else over on this side of the vehicle that really needs to be addressed therefore I'm just going to put my cover back up in there

One of the main things whenever you're doing any kind of service is to really look the vehicle over look at all the compliance bushings let you know check for any loose suspension parts like ball joints or tie rods or things like that

Shake the wheels before you remove them I did this during my initial inspection of this vehicle so I knew what I was up against also check the tires for you know any issues as far as tire pressures or any abnormal wear that type of thing

Which could indicate an alignment issue basically take the opportunity with the service to truly look the vehicle over and see if there are any problems that are happening now or may potentially happen in the future

Normally during the course of a major service I will clean and lubricate the brakes however the brakes on this car both front and rear were worn out and required replacement by auto parts comm

Was kind enough to send me these rotors and pads yes they are drilled in slotted rotors I didn't necessarily ask for these but I didn't complain about him either do they help the car stop any better I don't think so but the car

Stops absolutely great and I'm very happy with the result before I forget I'm going to add transmission fluid to do that right here down on the top of the transmission is that 17 millimeter plug that you need to remove and I

Install a funnel and put the transmission fluid in there sometimes it's on there surprisingly snug so I come prepared with a breaker bar and I'm glad I did there's no separate differential on these so all you need to

Worry about is the transmission fluid normally I wouldn't be able to move this used box out of the way and I use a longer funnel but with the cross brace removed it's actually quite easy to move it out of the way

And I'm putting in three fresh quarts of Honda ATF after driving the car around for about a week I recheck the transmission fluid level and found it to be about a half a quart low and I'm finding this to be somewhat typical on

Later model Honda transmissions so instead of just three quarts you might consider getting four quarts just in case you need that extra half a quart if you want to change your fluid I recommend changing it three times so

Change it once then drive it for a little bit you know maybe 100 miles or so or something like that change it again and then drive it well maybe hundred miles is too much maybe like 20 miles and then change it again

So three of these fluid changes wouldn't quit equate to like changing all of the fluid because you're never going to get everything out of the torque converter and everything else but if you're really an a bit about that and then my

Experience if you do this every 30,000 miles or so just changing out with three quarts of Honda ATF there's usually isn't an issue now I realize TLS of an older vintage had bad reputation for transmission problems these not so much

The by the time they made these they've had most of those issues pretty well sorted out now if you have one of these with a six-speed manual transmission obviously this procedure is going to be different but I recommend using Honda

Manual transmission fluid when you do that or I've also had success with a GM synchromesh manual transmission fluid as well in the Honda's those are the only two things that I would use but definitely the automatics only Honda ATF

I know it's expensive but transmissions are more expensive this doesn't need to be like super tight just snug it up that's all it needs it's not gonna come flying off of there with the transmission fluid changed I'm now

Going to turn my attention to the spark plugs which aren't all that difficult the rear ones are more difficult but without this strut brace it's actually quite simple I'll show you on the front pretty much what you need to do it's

Just a matter of unplugging the coil packs there's a little tab here you need to depress and then remove these ten millimeter nuts and you can remove the coil packs underneath those coil packs is the spark plugs be super careful

Around this dipstick because it's plastic and you can break it off so if you're concerned about that remove it all together and set it aside until you're done servicing when you break this off down inside here trust me it's

A lot of fun trying to get it out if it breaks off flush don't ask me how I know and then as you're removing the coil packs inspect to see if there's any oil on them at all if there is then you've got a oil seal that needs to be replaced

That's interesting yeah so yeah there's a little bit of oil down in that one which sucks I'm gonna leave this for another day when I do say a valve adjustment because in order to replace the seal you need to remove the valve

Cover and everything else and if I'm gonna be in there doing that I might as well commit to a valve adjustment for now I'm gonna replace the plugs I don't think that this is a lot of oil and I'll consider it to be a lot of oil but

That's what you want to look for you want to look for if you see stuff like that because if you do well then you need to replace the seals and the valve cover in order to deal with that the oil packs out of the way remove the plugs

oh yeah let's say they'd been a while since he's been replaced but it's burning good it's a nice clean porcelain that I see there one might be burning a little bit of oil

You see it's a little bit tan and no it's not burning oil from what's getting into the spark plug well this is inside the combustion chamber this is outside another one that looks like it's burning just fine

So despite appearances and mileage it's actually not doing too bad I'm gonna put a little brake clean down on those holes to wash some of the oil out you don't want to load it up because it'll evaporate but if you get a bunch of

Liquid down inside the cylinder and you try to start it bad things will happen bad things will happen and also believe me when I say that is not a lot of oil now as far as plug gap don't touch it because my experience with these NGK is

Unless the package is somehow damaged or something like that that these don't require any gapping at all just install them in the cylinder head sometimes what I do is I'll take a little drop of engine oil and just put it on the

Threads no anti-seize just maybe a little drop of engine oil that's it and also important not to let it just bang down into the inside there because that could actually bend the electrode so be mindful of that

you really only need to go until they're snug so maybe about a half turn and then some yeah that's a half all right three quarters of a turn past the time they're

Snug and dry this off before I put it down in there because brake fluid is very flammable in vapor form and when you start adding spark to flammable things

Well that's what makes the engine run but you want to keep that on the inside not the outside explosions on the inside these quarter inch tools for this so you don't over tighten because really these things aren't going to come blowing out

Of here now we can do the ones in the back what because if you want to share the passage of time you gotta have a montage nope not gonna do a montage this time

But I like the way cameraman Brian thinks we like to keep things light while working in the shop making these videos for you no oil on that one no oil on that one and on that one I use I think that's yeah that's like a six

Inch extension but I have to drop the socket in first and then add the extension because I don't have enough room under here once again looks like it's burning good truthfully these plugs back here don't look that old at all

It's weird because normally the front ones would be new and the rear ones be old because they didn't bother changing them it's kind of what I'm getting at but it's interesting how these back plugs all look relative with me on an

FYI if you open it like it the picture on the box you'll get the top here if you open the bottom you'll get that part never check gaps on these and I have no idea how many of these I've installed in 20-some years the only time I have her

Had a problem was when they were down inside of well like this and I just dropped him in really quick I was in a hurry and one of the electrodes bent and it created a misfire after doing it to not that was the only time I ever had an

Issue and that was something I caused and I almost think going through and gapping these you can cause a problem because of the coating that was on the end of this electrode you could wear it off by doing that point is as I've never

Done it and it hasn't been an issue other than what I just mentioned but hey it's your vehicle do what you want one thing I've done a lot of on these cars is replace the high pressure power steering hose there was a recall on

Those I did so many of those in fact that's why I have so much fun to power steering fluid because every one of those kits I had to replace which by the way this thing runs under the engine mount back here so yeah that was

Challenging and the whole job I think paid 7/10 which is a little more than a half an hour and yeah you had to undo an engine mouth welcome to the wonderful world of being

An auto repair technician kids the real upside to it is working on your own stuff and not having to make vehicle payments by two hundred dollar vehicles like this and invest a couple grand like I'm doing here by the time you're done

On the other side and most of that sand tires by the way and by the time you're done in on the other side of it you've got a reliable something that you can have cheap insurance on that you maintain yourself

That's a beautiful thing so you can save a lot of money by doing your own auto repair and the reason I say professional mechanic is because you have a chance to write off your tools where's you don't get to do that as the DIY er necessarily

And that's that now I'll do the air filter it's held in by four eight millimeter or Phillips head screws I don't trust the Phillips head screws so I'm just using an 8 millimeter it's ready some leaves down in here I feel

Better about that something else I like to do during a major service like this which I didn't mention at the beginning is changed the brake fluid a turkey baster it out of the master cylinder now in addition to doing that I also plan on

Putting steel braided brake lines on this and the not too distant future so I'll bleed the rest of the system out that way it is I would say considered acceptable just the turkey base the fluid that's in the master cylinder out

And then start over with fresh fluid and if you do bleed it out the wheels great but I've often done this at services and I would say getting most of the fluid out instead of none of the fluid out and during a service is is better better

And if that's dirty I clean it out with brake cleaner but it looks looks pretty good actually I know I got a fancy middle turkey baster and the reason I have a fancy metal turkey baster is because my plastic ones kept going blue

So this was like I don't know an eight dollar turkey baster which is ridiculous but I hope it's the last turkey baster I ever buy for this kind of thing and avoid getting this on paint because it will ruin the finish maybe I'd get them

Down in there a little more with my stabby part yeah this one's got a stabby part oh yeah I can totally get down in there the best darn turkey baster I've ever had for this I think that's about as far

As I'm gonna get but that was a lot this system takes dot three or dot for fluid I'm using dot three and I'm actually gonna be replacing the front brakes so I'm gonna wait until I'm done doing that before I completely top

It off I'd clean the outside of the reservoir it's easier to tell how much fluid is in it and now let's address that battery terminal issue that I found during the initial inspection of this car when I got it to undo this old junk

This is gonna be my new terminal and yeah I was afraid of that I need to make these slightly larger once I do life will be good now even though this is brand new and brass I'm still gonna rough up the surface on the inside a

Little bit oxidation can happen I'm trying to get the best electrical connection possible by the way the negative is not connected so there's no path to ground I'm not worried about making a spark by touching

This now that is a good electrical connection oops forgot that this got to go on first now that is a good electrical connection with the battery cover and now the

Hold-down avoid running this down so much it distorts the battery case that's bad just need to Snug it up and finally I already cleaned the top of the battery but keep your batteries clean because Believe It or Not voltage can bleed out

Through the dirt video link in the description about that now when these things well older Honda's when they came in from the factory brand new all Honda would do was take a little bit of grease and put it on the positive terminal

That's all they would do in the negative terminal but this is how they prevented corrosion let's say now as that heats up it'll eventually seep into everything and hopefully not disturb my electrical connection which I don't believe it will

But that's how they came from the factory when doing a service I also like to change out the coolant now once you get to the lower splash shield off the petcock for the radiator is right here and it should drain through this hole is

Turn it counterclockwise if you can hard to get up in there and don't you get it draining I'm going to lower this down you take the radiator cap off it'll come out even faster

Earlier in this video I mentioned rotating and inspecting your tires during a major service during my initial inspection of this vehicle I found some of the tires to be completely worn out in fact so much so that the cords were

Showing so I decided to replace all four tires with a set of Michelin Pilot Sport guesses I feel that these are the best tires for this vehicle it's just my personal opinion after working on these cars for years and years that said I do

Have one complaint about these tires and that is when it's cold sometimes there's a vibration until the tires warm up to me this is a moderate concern not really son to be too worried about but something I feel that's worth mentioning

Now something else that some people brought up in the comments of my initial inspection video was a lot of that tire wear seemed to be on the inside edge of the tire and that is an excellent eye and that's the kind of thing that I want

You looking out for during the course of this service to possibly indicate an alignment issue and anytime you do get new tires it is recommend that you also get an alignment but in my experience this inside tire wear is typical on

Honda vehicles especially if they're not running Michelin tires I know that sounds weird but it's just something I've noticed over time now the last thing I'll mention is that when installing new tires on aluminum wheels

I've gotten into the practice of cleaning the wheels before installing the new tires and I do this to prevent any leaks at the bead I have seen some cases where the aluminum wheels will corrode and cause a leak where the bead

Meets the wheel in order to prevent this I like to clean the wheels before installing new tires so if you've recently had tires installed on aluminum wheels and you've got a slow leak it might be a good idea to check to see if

There's a leak around the rims and I do this by spraying a little bit of soapy water around the around the rim where it meets the tire and if you see bubbles coming out then you've found a leak and you should take it back to wherever you

Got those tires installed and I would make a point of asking them not to go in and just put bead sealer in there but actually going in and cleaning up the wheels now I've probably pissed off some tire shops by saying that but I just

Find that a better way to address the problem other than gooping it up with a bunch of stuff that somebody has to deal with later down the road when they change tires one more thing I'll share with you about tires in addition to the

All Seasons I also got myself a set of winter wheels and tire for the TL these are Nokian Hakka paleta are threes and these in my opinion are excellent winter tires I know this for a fact because of actually driven on these

Tires in the Arctic Circle and I could say they have plenty of grip on snow and ice but one thing to note is that these wheels are actually smaller than what's on their stock what's on their stock is 17-inch these are actually 16-inch

Wheels which gives me a little bit more sidewall for better grip also these are a little bit narrower I find that narrower tires tend to cut through the snow and have better traction than wider tires which tend to skate up on top of

Them these are just my opinions but these are the tires and wheels that I got for when it gets snowy and icy outside and all I have to do is take off the other ones and both these on alright we're down to just a little drip so I

Can close this up you don't need to crank this down with pliers or anything you just need to snug it up with your fingers and that should be fine as previously stated I am NOT going with any kind of quote unquote special oil

I'm just gonna go with conventional of the correct viscosity which according to the oil cap is 5w 20 I don't know what was in this previously I have this conventional oil in stock and I'm just gonna use what I have and in case you

Were curious this engine takes five quarts now I could put a little bit of oil in the oil filter when I installed it that's not a bad idea not a hundred percent necessary but it does help when you first start the engine as far as

Getting oil to all the inner parts of the engine when you first started out that was messy and uncalled for why did why why now it's everywhere all over my pants pro tip make sure your funnel is

Securely installed in the engine before you start dumping oil in where were we I yes quart number two of five and just as an FYI if you're concerned about me just put in conventional oil in this engine when working at the dealership all we

Used was bulk oil and lest the engine like with an hour DX initially when those came out they called for Mobil 1 but if they don't call for quote unquote synthetic oil we just used loyal and that was at the dealership

Namely because of the expense it's much cheaper to buy conventional oil and bulk and as much as I hate to say this and it's probably changed now when other oils like 5w 20 started being used in the engines we kept using the 5w30 stuff

For quite some time and the engines unbeknownst to many owners so when you're getting your vehicle serviced if you're really particular about the type of oil that goes into it I suggest doing it yourself you could bring the oil you

Want used in your engine to whatever place you're having it serviced that is also an option but I personally have never had issues with just using conventional oil you know I think the real important thing is is that you make

Sure you put it in there because it is important engines don't like to run without oil in fact they don't run for very long my experience next let's get some coolant in here it had green somebody change it out for green coolant

At some point and I haven't known that to be like a real issue adding green coolant to a system that originally took blue I haven't seen real issues with that but considering the options you have out there like universal type

Coolant saving like as some companies even make a specific colored coolant that's supposed to be universal for vehicles with that color coolant originally what was in this and I have some is the Honda blue coolant this

Stuff which is what I'm going to be running and I'll put a link in the description to this I've also got a video about how to bleed the air out of the cooling system but since we did the water pump and drain the radiator we

Should get most of the old green coolant out but one thing I did notice when Honda switch from green to blue coolant was before the blue coolant there were a lot of Honda radiator failures and usually it was at the seam between the

Aluminum and the plastic tank since they switched to blue coolant I don't really see that as much anymore so the low phosphate formula they're using here seems to be working while you're filling it's a good idea

Periodically just to check for leaks if you're pouring it in and you hear it dripping out on the floor find out where that's coming from it's probably important I think all you'll need is two gallons I'm also gonna top up the

Overflow don't forget the bug juice before I started up for the first time I'm just gonna take one last look underneath for any leaks or anything that might indicate that there's a problem I don't

See anything I think we're good to go now I realize some of you are going to be disappointed that there's no initial startup of this car after completing all this work in this video and I apologize for that but the reason is because in

Addition to doing the major service I also did the timing belt water pump I also replace the power steering pump the thermostat and the valve cover gaskets all of which will be covered in other videos so in one of those videos you'll

See that initial startup of the car after doing all this work and once again I apologize for not having that for you here today but I do want to say that after you're done doing all this work and you're topping up all the coolant in

Particular you want to make sure to bleed the air from the cooling system now I'll link a video in the description that I did that covers this in detail and also I cover it in one of those later videos that I mentioned but you

Want to make sure you bleed the cooling system out you want to make sure you check for leaks and you want to be sure to continue to monitor things particularly things that were of note that you found during your inspections

When you were doing the service we can't forget about resetting the all-important maintenance light because that's going to be on so turn the ignition switch on and it says that the b13 service is due now in order to reset that there is down

On the steering wheel the select reset light hold that down and it switches over to maintenance reset up to cancel or select – okay press select again and that should reset it almost did a key again

everything's all reset and that will conclude my coverage of the major service on a 2004 through 2008 Acura TL this information will also apply to Honda Accords of the same vintage with

The J Series v6 in fact it could be said that the information I covered in this video can pretty much cover Honda's with a J Series v6 as far as major service is concerned as I mentioned I'm also going to be producing videos about the timing

Belt water pump replacement power steering pump thermostat valve cover gaskets also the cabin air filters I mentioned those and a few other things that I can't quite think of at the moment this is basically a part of a

Series that I'm doing on this car that I bought for two hundred dollars taking it from a two hundred dollar car to something I'm driving everyday and relying on there's a whole series that is going to be produced from this links

To those down in the description in fact you'll notice at the top of the description there's a link to the previous video and the next video as far as when it becomes available also linked in the description will be any parts or

Tools so if you have questions about anything you saw in this video please check the description the information is likely there if you have automotive questions and not covered in this video I asked you head to air at the cargo

Comm also linked in the description be sure to LIKE comment subscribe share this video with the world really appreciate it when you do that stuff thank you be safe have fun stay dirty thank you for watching and I will see

You next time

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